Moulin-à-Vent – a useful alternative to red burgundy?

Moulin a Vent Beaujolais windmill

More than two dozen of the best examples tasted in order to answer this question.

Of the ten Beaujolais crus, Moulin-à-Vent has always been considered the noblest, its tannic, structured wines having the ability to age, the aromatic profile moving gently towards the meaty, spicy notes of aged Pinot Noir. Gamay it remains but as the price of burgundy heads inexorably upwards, is Moulin-à-Vent a genuine alternative to the reds of the Côte d’Or? (See also Decoding Moulin-à-Vent and Moulin-à-Vent under scrutiny.)

I had a chance recently to sample a selection from a newly established growers’ association, Cap Moulin-à-Vent...