Penfolds focus the hype – at what price?

At the launch of Graham's Ne Oublie last week I was asked by a Portuguese television interviewer what I thought of the price. Most unfortunately she gave me the wrong price: 600 rather than 6,000 euros apiece, which, needless to say, I thought was relatively reasonable. I muttered darkly that I had encountered more ambitious pricing in my time and was, I must admit, thinking of Penfolds' ridiculous ampoule.

The bean counters at Penfolds, by far the jewel in the somewhat tarnished crown that is Treasury Wine Estates, are clearly busy trying to work out how best to...