Port and Châteauneuf – natural partners?

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I had lunch with someone who works for J P Morgan on Friday, tasted some wines from the cellar of a captain of industry in the evening, and learnt a great deal.

For a start I learned that Thursday is the night of the week favoured by London’s financial set for dining out together at the company’s expense. ‘Then you have your hangover on the company’s clock,’ it was explained.

The wines at lunch included a fine jeroboam of Dom Ruinart 1996 that showed none of the austerity that dogs some 1996 champagnes, Puligny Clavoillon 2007 from Domaine Leflaive that...