Rocky mountains wreathed in storm clouds loom over gnarled, grape-laden vines. Medieval hamlets perched on hills and the edifices of wineries – some quite rustic, others glossy and modern – dot the vine-covered landscape. I’m taking all this in, surrounded by vines planted nearly a century ago, on a hillside vineyard in Rioja Alavesa, the smallest of Rioja’s subregions. I’ve come here with the Old Vine Conference to explore the region’s wealth...
Rioja Alavesa's old-vine wealth
Friday 31 May 2024
• 4 min read
The quest to save the varietal diversity of this high-elevation region, and the pay-off in its wines. Above, old vines in the Las Beatis vineyard in Rioja Alavesa.
Become a member to continue reading
Celebrating 25 years of the world’s most trusted wine community
In honour of our anniversary, enjoy 25% off all annual and gift memberships for a limited time.
Use code HOLIDAY25 to join our community of wine experts and enthusiasts. Valid through 1 January.
Member
$135
/year
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
- Access 286,402 wine reviews & 15,829 articles
- Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
Ideal for collectors
- Access 286,402 wine reviews & 15,829 articles
- Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
- Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
- Access 286,402 wine reviews & 15,829 articles
- Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
- Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
- Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
- Access 286,402 wine reviews & 15,829 articles
- Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
- Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
- Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
More Tasting articles
Tasting articles
See also the companion article on sparkling, white and rosé wines published last month. For more ports and Madeiras, see...
Tasting articles
Part one of a two-part exploration of change in the vineyards of southern France.
Not for the first time, I’ve...
Tasting articles
A comparative tasting of champagne from the highly acclaimed 1996 vintage and the overshadowed 1995. And a daring way to...
Tasting articles
Sherry, port and Madeira in profusion. This is surely the time of year when you can allow yourself to take...
More from JancisRobinson.com
Inside information
Brunello farmers never knew what nature would throw at them next in 2025. Yet somehow they managed, even claiming that...
Book reviews
Six sleek guides for wine lovers wanting on-the-ground advice on what and where to drink and eat.
The Smart Traveller’s...
Nick on restaurants
What is it about Saturday lunch? A tale of one enjoyed at Mayfair’s latest opening. Very fancy!
It has been...
Inside information
The final episode of a seven-part podcast series giving the definitive story of Jancis’s life and career so far. For...
Free for all
Some wine really does get better with age, and not all of it is expensive. A slightly shorter version of...
Wine news in 5
Plus Mendoza’s recent embrace of copper mining and the end of the Sud de France moniker on wine labels. Above...
Wines of the week
Snap up this delicate tawny for the festive season, as it will carry you from canapés through cantucci. From $19.99...
Inside information
After extensive tasting and talking to producers up and down Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, Matthew surveys the vintage. Above, the tellingly...