Samuel Billaud's 2018s

Samuel Billaud in London

At last, a generous vintage in Chablis.

'I've never a seen a vintage like this in all my time in Chablis', 48-year-old Samuel Billaud said with a gentle smile. Fresh from the Eurostar and dodging the London rain, he had come to host a tasting and lunch at the offices of his UK importer Charles Taylor.

It might not be the greatest vintage of all time but it combined good quality, full ripeness and, what producers sorely need after the shortfalls in 2016 and 2017, quantity.

Billaud explained how the volume of juice that poured out of the press came as...