Scheurebe and some glamorous stragglers


Cinderella Riesling's ugly sister, a pagan transvestite, Riesling's evil horny twin, Sämling 88, Riesling x unknown, the experiment, cat's pee on a blackcurrant bush… with descriptors like this, no prizes for guessing the identity of this oft-sniffed-at grape that seems to forever be the wallflower at the German ball. 

But I have a confession. I adore this unloved, overlooked wallflower. As Terry Theise famously wrote (in Reading Between the Vines), 'If Riesling expresses all that is Noble and Good, Scheurebe offers all that is Dirty and Fun ... it takes what is essentially a Riesling type and ladles a...