The discreet charm of Vino Nobile

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This is the third of Walter Speller's extensive reports from the recent Anteprima tastings of the latest releases in Italy. Extensive reviews and opinions on Brunello di Montalcino's controversial 2006 vintage follow in Brunello reaches the point of no return, and then on Amarone later this week.

See also the Anteprima 2011 – Chianti Classico tasting notes and Chianti Classico – some radical proposals published earlier this week.

Montepulciano is a beautiful, but very quiet hilltop town overlooking 1,300 ha of vineyards registered for the production of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It is the smallest (and the least well...