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VDP 2011s – Nahe, Rheingau & Rheinhessen

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Michael Schmidt gives us an overview of this stunning vintage in Germany's 2011s – truly exceptional. See also his notes on VDP 2011s from Pfalz & Franken and the Mosel. We will subsequently be reviewing many more German 2011s.

Producers are in alphabetical order, and wines listed in the order tasted.

NAHE

DIEL, Nahe

The herbaceous influence of spontaneous fermentation is still...
There’s an intriguing aroma somehow reminiscent of wood, just a...
A blend of Burgberg and Goldloch grapes, you get a cuvée of two...
Mirabelles and peaches combine into a very attractive fragrance...
Orange, mandarin and grapefruit aromas exhibit exotic elegance...
The nose may still be reeling from fermentation stress but the...

DÖNNHOFF, Nahe

Very reserved on the nose. The palate reveals some fresh green...
'Tonschiefer’ equals argillaceous shale, or clay-based slate to...
Though at the single site level, we are beginning to be treated...
I am not familiar enough with the Höllenpfad to know its soil...
A firm mineral streak runs through the throbbing veins of this...
Struggling for descriptive terms I am finally happy with the...
A generous array of fruit aromas includes peaches, mirabelles...

EMRICH-SCHÖNLEBER, Nahe

A hint of spontaneous fermentation provides a lightly herbaceous...
The ‘Lenz’ represents a little bit of a compromise as it is not...
A name like ‘Mineral’ always carries with it the trepidation of...
To me the dry rendition of the Frühlingsplätzchen always seems...
The nose still sports a certain post-fermentation herbaceousness...
Nose restrained and still under the influence of spontaneous...
Opulent lashings of tropical fruit raise expectations of an orgy...

KRUGER-RUMPF, Nahe and Rheinhessen

80% vinified in stainless steel, 20% in large casks. Fresh and...
Cask sample. Very restrained on the nose with the merest hint of...
Cask sample. Not a whiter shade of pale, but a softer kind of...
Cask sample. Still restrained on the nose, the palate impresses...

Cask sample. The Dorsheimer raises Stefan Rumpf’s trocken stakes...

Green and yellow fruit aromas mingle with some delicate spicy...
Intriguing combination of mango and peach tickles the olfactory...

PRINZ SALM, Nahe and Rheinhessen

From green-slate terroir, the green fruit element and slightly...
The Rheinhessen offering of estate trocken is just a little less...
Though quite restrained, there is an almost earthy-chalky aspect...
Still a touch yeasty but with attractive aromas of green fruit...

SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH, Nahe
Opinions are divided, not about spontaneous fermentation, but about spontaneous fermentation aromas. What is clear is that these herbaceous, sometimes sulphur-like notes will dissipate, but I for one would not pretend...
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