VDP 2011s – Nahe, Rheingau & Rheinhessen

The herbaceous influence of spontaneous fermentation is still making its presence felt, but on the palate herbal and mineral influences combine into one of the more intriguing renditions of trocken estate wine. (MS)

There’s an intriguing aroma somehow reminiscent of wood, just a hint of pine, but this could also be associated with mango fruit. Maybe the Dorsheimer has been raised in oak fuders (1000-litre casks). What can be said with certainty is that it is full bodied, with a generous flavour that is not short of a minerally element. (MS)

A blend of Burgberg and Goldloch grapes, you get a cuvée of two grand crus at half price. This theory may be wishful thinking, but it cannot be denied that the ‘egg rock’ has a depth and length of flavour only found in the best of dry Riesling. Once again the fruit plays very much a supporting role, the true strength coming from an almost gravelly minerality. (MS)

Mirabelles and peaches combine into a very attractive fragrance, and the palate follows this ripe and juicy fruit theme with enough lemony acidity to deliver a mouth-watering performance. Generous and lively. (MS)

Orange, mandarin and grapefruit aromas exhibit exotic elegance rather than tropical exuberance. A zesty peel tang partners lively acidity and a wet stone minerally expression to produce a Spätlese that exudes sheer energy. A magic potion to revive jaded taste buds! (MS)

The nose may still be reeling from fermentation stress but the palate is already revealing a wealth of fruit, ranging from peaches and yellow plums to mango and citrus fruit. A very attractive delicate bitter-sweet note on the finish provides a fascinating contrast to the exuberant fruit flavours and in partnership with perfectly pitched acidity puts the Goldloch firmly in the realms of complexity. Both concentration and length are outstanding. (MS)

Very reserved on the nose. The palate reveals some fresh green fruit on a surprisingly rich texture. Very dry and with the faintest of smoky notions it’s quite a serious trocken entry wine. (MS)

'Tonschiefer’ equals argillaceous shale, or clay-based slate to the lay geologist. The wine does have a dusty element to it and exhibits a certain herbaceousness too. I find this quite austere but perfectly structured. (MS)

Though at the single site level, we are beginning to be treated to an almost perfumed expression of peach and apricot, it is the mineral content that gives the Kahlenberg its character. Taut and racy this is a purist’s interpretation of dry Riesling. (MS)

I am not familiar enough with the Höllenpfad to know its soil composition, but a generous expression of juicy grapefruit and peach gives me the impression that there is less slate and rock in them there hills than in the Kahlenberg. A little more gentle on the taste buds, a trocken that is patting you on the back rather than grabbing you by the throat. (MS)

A firm mineral streak runs through the throbbing veins of this Kabinett, but is softened by the reconciliatory concession of peachy perfume. A zesty citrus peel flavour adds intrigue to the finish. Where other Kabinetts aim to please, this one invites to ponder. (MS)

Struggling for descriptive terms I am finally happy with the word delicious. A composition of grace and purity. I should write an inspiring poem here about fruit orchard fragrance, animating acidity and sheer harmony, but the poet laureate I am not. (MS)

A generous array of fruit aromas includes peaches, mirabelles, oranges and even more exotic notes. An abundance of ripe juicy fruit also envelops the palate and a delicate touch of caramel and toffee takes the imbiber into a stratosphere of indulgence. Don’t expect the trivial pleasures though of sticky pudding or death by honey, an invigorating freshness has been masterfully retained. (MS)

A hint of spontaneous fermentation provides a lightly herbaceous aroma, and this theme continues with some green fruit on the palate. Sappy and uncompromisingly dry. (MS)

The ‘Lenz’ represents a little bit of a compromise as it is not quite as dry as the Riesling trocken and brings some juicy relief to the palate. A gentle grapefruit flavour reflects both fruit and acidity and takes us to a slightly dusty finish. Good length too! (MS)

A name like ‘Mineral’ always carries with it the trepidation of having to crush gravel on the palate, but at E-S these fears are alleviated by a generous donation of fruit to the mineral fund. Nevertheless licking the stone runs through the sensory perception like a thread. Clean as a whistle and not lacking in elegance. (MS)

To me the dry rendition of the Frühlingsplätzchen always seems to exhibit some ‘green’ notes, in 2011 including green fruit, a gentle herbal influence and a tad of spontaneous herbaceousness. A delicate flinty or dusty note contributes an animating minerally component that adds the final touch to achieve a perfect balance. (MS)

The nose still sports a certain post-fermentation herbaceousness, but notes of ripe green and yellow fruit afford a slightly more generous expression than the Frühlingsplätzchen. With the Halenberg, minerality is not the theme but the bonus ball. Slightly dusty in its expression, it sets just enough of an accent to complement an overall softer performance of trocken. Coming from the ‘lesser’ slopes of the Halenberg, it raises great expectations for its grand cru sibling, to be released later this year. (MS)

Nose restrained and still under the influence of spontaneous fermentation. The palate benefits from an early outburst of exotic fruit which hovers in its expression intriguingly between opulent and racy. A tingle of flint and zesty citrus peel join the juicy acidity of the fruit to linger for a while and lift the Halenberg into one of the 2011 greats of Spätlese compositions. (MS)

Opulent lashings of tropical fruit raise expectations of an orgy of the olfactory senses, but the luscious expression on the palate is well balanced by a reserved but nevertheless sound acidity. Almond cake with a layer of honey and a sweet lemony injection titillate the taste buds, and excitement is hardly dampened by the everlasting finish of caramelised sweet citrus fruit. Utterly delightful. (MS)

80% vinified in stainless steel, 20% in large casks. Fresh and dry, still a little yeasty, lively and light on the palate, almost a touch sherbetty. (MS)

Cask sample. Very restrained on the nose with the merest hint of local fruit aromas. Very fresh and slightly tangy, keeping its minerally provenance well under wraps. Delicate in flavour, but honest straightforward trocken. (MS)

Cask sample. Not a whiter shade of pale, but a softer kind of dry. Delicate fruit notes are beginning to take on an almost exotic complexion and add an attractive touch to a chalky expression of terroir. (MS)

Cask sample. Still restrained on the nose, the palate impresses with a pleasant combination of fruit and acidity with grapefruit as the common denominator. Quite impressive on the minerally front too with a mean dusty, almost gravelly streak. (MS)

Cask sample. The Dorsheimer raises Stefan Rumpf’s trocken stakes into the three-dimensional. Add a pronounced herbal note to fruit and minerality. Following an initially soft beginning of meadow flower and herb aromas, a mouthwatering grapefruit flavour tingles the taste, but gives way on the final furlong to a fair dose of quinine. (MS)

Green and yellow fruit aromas mingle with some delicate spicy notion, but not before a firm minerally expression takes us down a long and dusty road. Dusty as in flinty, and long as in lasting finish. The Pittersberg almost seems to exude some kind of cool breeze, no doubt due to a combination of refreshing acidity and wet stone in mountain stream association. (MS)

Intriguing combination of mango and peach tickles the olfactory perception. The taste buds are treated to a successful double act of ripe fruit and invigorating acidity. Light in style but not in flavour, this Spätlese from an underrated appellation puts in a very lively performance. (MS)

From green-slate terroir, the green fruit element and slightly grassy aroma are almost uncanny. Raspingly fresh with mouth-puckering acidity. Throw in a measure of dusty spice and you have a fresh, crisp and clean entry trocken. (MS)

The Rheinhessen offering of estate trocken is just a little less austere, bringing some herbal notes and a little grapefruit into the flavour equation. Not a softie by any means though, it still offers a slightly earthy notion and sound backbone of acidity. (MS)

Though quite restrained, there is an almost earthy-chalky aspect on the nose that finds expression in a unique flavour combining gravelly notes with a hint of quinine, akin to a refreshing tonic without the gin. I don’t drink G & T, but I would drink this. (MS)

Still a touch yeasty but with attractive aromas of green fruit and meadow herbs. One of the slightly leaner Spätlesen around, its gentle melon and grapefruit expression and a delicate mineral accent form a harmonious partnership with well-pitched acidity and residual sugar. (MS)