Tesco's summer collection

As for Waitrose – 120 wines for 'summer', Richard and I split the 'work' of tasting our way though Tesco's current range.

The most notable table was the Social Responsibility Selection, a dozen or so reduced- or low-alcohol wines that presumably play a part in the giant retailer's pledge to government to counter Britain's booze culture. Most of them were some of the least pleasant liquids to have passed my lips for many a year, but there was one quite respectable white and a reasonably drinkable red from J P Chenet. But much more natural-tasting and still only about...