In the church of wine, Pinot Noir is God. We worship it unequivocally, even though we sometimes question why it can be so cruel. It sometimes provides us with flashes of ecstasy, but usually so briefly that we are left longing for more; mere mortals on our eternal quest for paradise.
I confess that, lately, my faith has been wavering. I have been lucky enough to taste the best Pinot Noirs in the world, according to popular consensus (and plenty of the worst along the way). Such access...
