I don’t want to be writing this story. I’d much rather be spending the next 1,500 or so words telling you about the new Sustainable Winegrowing Australia trust mark, launched last month, and about the Sustainable Winegrowing Australia (SWA) programme itself, which is managed by the Australian Wine Research Institute in Adelaide (AWRI).
Instead, you’re coming with me on a journey into the heart of a controversy that blew up shortly after the trust mark was...
