Baden

The most southerly of Germany’s wine regions, just across the Rhine from Alsace, has the climate to produce some impressive red wines and some sturdy Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder. By far the most important producer is the Zentralkellerei, or co-op, based in Breisach, which is commendably ambitious. Some very good Pinots, including deep red Spätburgunders, are underappreciated abroad. And this is a region whose summers are now so warm that varieties such as Syrah, Viognier and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown with abandon

Some favourite producers: Hanspeter Ziereisen, Dr Heger, Bernhard Huber, Karl Heinz Johner, Fritz Keller, Andreas Laible, Martin Wassmer and Wolff-Metternich.