Domaine Saumaize-Michelin (Vergisson)
Vinified in oak, this is a serious and grown-up style of Mâcon-Villages. Has a fine balance between the ripeness from the summer warmth but with brisk acidity and finishing with an attractive mineral line. Love the purity here. Good value for what is in the bottle, rather than the actual AOP. GV (AWH)
From a vineyard which would be premier cru Pouilly-Fuissé if it were a few yards away (as is typical in Burgundy).
Lovely nose, subtle but also clearly a thoroughbred. Concentrated and precise, marries weight of fruit, mineral notes and bright acidity. Represents really good value for the quality here. VGV (AWH)
Generous and ripe on the palate. Plenty of warm, fleshy, yellow-peach fruit cut with a hint of apricot acidity/bitterness. Attractive, ready to drink. (AWH)
From a cooler north-facing site on chalky soils.
This needs a little time but there is drive and focus on the palate, together with a feel of the Mâconnais. Elegant, sappy, crisp, will be drinking beautifully in 12–18 months. (AWH)
Fine and typical example of the generosity and concentration on offer from most Viré-Clessé. Has plenty of weight and power, kept in check by a line of fresh lemony acidity and a chalky, slightly drying finish. (AWH)
Fermented and aged in 228- and 450-litre barrels.
Has the extra weight expected of Pouilly-Fuissé but retains plenty of freshness to balance the yellow-peach fruit. Subtle oak, hint of nutmeg and cinnamon on the finish. Lots to enjoy here from early on. (AWH)
From a north-east-facing parcel at 350 m. 12 ‘moons’ in oak barrels on lees. Unfiltered. Bottled according to the lunar calendar.
Smells of ripe nectarine coulis and tastes very peachy. Racy acidity but it doesn’t hide the ripe succulence. Only very lightly spicy (warm baking spices) on the finish. Lots of pleasure here. (TC)
Red-limestone soils.
Plenty of interest here with concentration and weight on the palate, coupled with brisk, malic-style acidity. Lovely purity of fruit. Marries ripeness with drive – very subtle oak. Lingering finish. A fine Pouilly-Fuissé. (AWH)
From vineyards on rich, Triassic clay soils.
Deeper colour in the glass. Weighty, luxurious texture, all balanced by a great line of freshening acidity. Really complete already – will drink very well for 5 years. (AWH)
A fine, complex Pouilly-Fuissé. No overblown fruit or hefty oak here. Subtle, focused and with loads of freshening acidity. Complex with just a background hint of oak adding an extra layer of interest. Has the concentration and purity to age very well. (AWH)
Étienne Sauzet (Puligny-Montrachet)
Cask/tank sample. Lightly smoky and broad and green-fruited. Nothing to object to even if it’s not the most exciting white burgundy in the world. Sudden finish. (JR)
Cask/tank sample. Edgy and with lots of precision. No shortage of ripeness. Not overpriced for the quality. (JR)
Cask/tank sample. Is this the only Puligny village cuvée they make? Just a little dull but serviceable. (JR)
Cask/tank sample. Some richness which suggests it’s almost worth the money! Good tension. Lots of lime juice and structure, too. Long! (JR)
Domaine Seguin-Manuel (Beaune)
Certified organic. Smells creamy and fruity after the Christian Moreau Chablis. Suggestion of oak in spicy oatmeal aromas. Lightly oaky on the palate. Fresh, rounded, straightforward with a sour-fresh aftertaste. (JH)
Mid crimson, darker than many 2024s. Inviting dark-red fruit, suggesting the warmer south of the region. Chewy, sweet and sour on the palate. Flavourful and generous for 2024. Moreish, juicy with smooth but definite tannins. (JH)
Certified organic. Light crimson. Scented with light notes of red fruits. Pretty cherry freshness. Fresh, balanced, the tannins well managed not to overwhelm the fruit. Relatively lightweight. (JH)
Certified organic. Pale cherry red. Smells very stemmy – either a lot of whole-bunch fruit or not very ripe. Lean and rather dry. Not sure how this will age. Maybe I am too cautious as it is sometimes hard to judge stemmy wines in youth. (JH)
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet (Maligny)
Screwcap. Bordet always produces a strong Petit Chablis – this is a fine example in 2024. Hint of green/gold in the glass. Grassy, acidity is upfront. Lacks a little concentration behind the citrus notes but I like the freshness and drive here. Could only be from the north of Burgundy. (AWH)
Screwcap. Plenty of density and concentration. Jean-François Bordet always makes a fine Chablis and in 2024 has excelled. Citrus fruit on the palate, cutting through the ripeness of some apricot-type fruit. Zesty and pretty complex at this level. (AWH)
A classic, pure, elegant Fourchaume. With the lower yields this shows plenty of depth and concentration but is quite restrained at the moment. Loads of potential – needs a couple of years to show its best but there is lots to come. Crisp, mineral finish. (AWH)
Subtle oak adds an extra dimension to the ripe, warm feeling on the palate. A little closed at the moment, this has plenty of stuffing to age very well. (AWH)
Domaine Sérafin (Gevrey-Chambertin)
Matthew writes Just four days of harvest at Serafin in 2024, from 18 to 21 September. But a series of pretty wines with good colours and plenty of balance. The harvest was up to 70% less than an average year.
Despite the low yields, Domaine Serafin offer punters a clear advantage as they hold back so much stock. Drinkers...