2014 Brunello – the shock of the light

GianLorenzo and Giovanni Neri

Walter goes out and about to discuss a troublesome vintage, and tastes 130 examples. Tomorrow, Riservas from the much more successful 2013 vintage

This month saw the release of the dreaded 2014 Brunello di Montalcino wines from the coldest and wettest vintage of the last 60 years. By a quirk of fate it coincides with that of the equally difficult 2017 Rosso di Montalcino, this time from a record hot year. 

Faced with this double whammy, the region nevertheless puts on a brave face and many producers seem highly confident. When I asked Ludovica and Carlo Lisini, the brother...