The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | Wine writing competition

From an Australian optimist

• 4 min read
Tiers vineyard in Adelaide Hills, spring 2020

In the spring an old man's fancy lightly turns to cheering us all up. Brian Croser ruminates in the Adelaide Hills.

The annual cycle turns regardless of drought, bushfires and COVID-19. The wattles are in full blossom, the jonquils and daffodils are flowering, the magnolia and almond blossoms are just emerging and we are pruning Tiers Vineyard.

We are more than a month past the shortest day of the year and the plants have received their instructions from season control to begin a new cycle of growth, flowering, fruiting and finally senescence again. There is comfort in this inexorable cycle, the sort of certainty and predictability that is missing from the human condition currently, with more uncertainties than at any other stage of our generation’s lifespan and, by inference, for all human beings, bar perhaps the few who survived the Second World War and are still alive today.

Reflecting fleetingly on the months cradling the 2020 vintage and since, it would be understandable to feel victimised but the victims’ club is potentially large and not one that delivers much benefit to members.

It is more productive to put 201920 into historical perspective.

First and foremost among recent afflictions there is this particular coronavirus, killing hundreds of thousands of people around the globe, maiming many more and infecting more than 15 million people, spreading at an increasing rate. The economic consequences of containment of the virus will be visited on the next decades and likely transferred on to several future generations.

The only historical events that bear comparison were the Spanish flu of 191820 following on the heels of the carnage of the First World War, presaging the economically devastating Great Depression, which in turn sowed the seeds of the Second World War. Now that is a sequence of events that could lead to feelings of victimisation …

But no, those of us who grew up with grandparents and parents who survived all or part of that maelstrom of events know how tough-minded and resilient-bodied they were, how frugal of need, how cautious about over-ambition or any extravagance and how determined they were to make things better for future generations.

Well, here we are and to a very large extent they succeeded in their ambition. We are a fortunate cohort of Australians, largely owing to their hard work and innovative spirit, bestowing on their children and grandchildren the education never possible for themselves and succeeding in their determination to leave Australia a better place than they had inherited.

Vaccines and treatments for COVID-19 will be developed in this era of astounding technological achievement. Governments will coordinate their efforts to alleviate the economic hardships visited on their populations, and lessons will be learned even while we grieve for those who succumbed and nurse those who are damaged.

Pandemic aside (however hard that may be), the other demon unleashed on us Australians in 201920 were the bushfires. They have happened before in a recorded sequence of death and destruction across the Australian continent since European settlement and back through the 65,000-year tenure of the land by the first Australians. In 1981 and more ferociously in 1983 our vineyards were alight from Clare through the Adelaide Hills to Coonawarra. We were lucky to survive the 1983 fire at our Piccadilly Valley home site and winery.

I have been reading about some of my ancestors who settled at Narre Warren on the edge of the Dandenongs in the Yarra Valley and who were burnt out, along with most of Victoria, on Black Thursday 1851. I use this pervasive fire only as an early example of the many that have followed and that occur through our lifetimes on an all-too-regular basis.

Had governments listened to the Australian Bureau of Meteorology in 2019 they would have realised the inevitable and been better prepared to deal with the extraordinary sequence of fires across the south-east of Australia from September 2019 to February 2020. Again, there is cause for optimism as technology facilitates a better understanding and ability to predict short-term weather events, medium-term climate cycles and the long-term outlook of climate change.

In 2020 we have endured the most disrupted vintage for 37 years and, like 1983, it was a small vintage due to failure of fruit set. Perhaps that is fortunate given the public perception surrounding the fires and the effect of smoke on the crop. It is difficult to convince bank managers of our good fortune.

Back to the inexorable seasonal cycle. As the vines in Tiers are being pruned to ready them to deliver vintage 2021, their roots are already stirring, beginning the march to another harvest next year. The soil has a full belly of moisture after good early winter rains, and the possibility of a La Niña developing increases the chances of replete vines and a warm flowering followed by a moderate-temperature (maybe even cool) summer.

Good crops of high-quality fruit should be harvested, making great wines for a starved domestic market seeking quality and authenticity where supply has been limited by the successive small vintages of 2019 and 2020.

President Trump will calmly hand over power after November [are you sure, Brian? – JR] and once President Biden defuses the trade war with China, Australian wine will continue to flow into China.

The coronavirus will be controlled and restaurants will fully reopen. Consumers will value the local over overseas experiences and imports.

The vines will continue their inexorable cycle and the world will take a deep breath, better prepared for the future, while the benefits technology can deliver to fulfil our version of our ancestors’ promise to make the world better, with particular reference to the reduction of CO2 emissions.

Don’t tell me I am dreaming! The seasonal cycle will continue even if I am.

Choose your plan
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 297,331 wine reviews & 16,160 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 297,331 wine reviews & 16,160 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Alaverdi Monastery, in Akhmeta, Kakheti
Free for all The wines of Georgia continue to be surprising. A slightly shorter version of this article is published by the Financial...
Markus and Eben Sadie at Berry Bros April 2026
Free for all Leading new-wave South African wine producer is looking to the future. A version of this article is published by the...
Sam Neill
Free for all Jancis remembers the most charming wine producer she has ever met. Above, Neill in his Two Paddocks vineyard. The worlds...
A glass of Sauvignon Blanc at an airport bar
Free for all After a first round of judging, we’re delighted to begin publishing the best of this year’s writing competition entries. All...

More from JancisRobinson.com

The Crest Vineyard, terroir of Moutou
Wines of the week Domaine Lafage’s Moutou from the Côtes Catalanes is not only delicious but also supports environmental research in this hot, dry...
Dugladze amber Rkatsiteli, walnuts and shoti, bread cooked on the inside of an oven
Tasting articles Jancis plunges into these distinctive wines, if not the distinctive country. Above, from producer Dugladze’s website, characteristically Georgian amber Rkatsiteli...
Penfolds Magill Estate chimney and vines
Tasting articles Big reds continue to rule in Penfolds Land, but changes are on the horizon. Penfolds’ Magill Estate is pictured above...
Boscareto vineyard in the snow
Tasting articles Concluding Walter’s report on this notably accessible vintage. Today, reviews of wines from the southern and eastern villages of Castiglione...
Barale estate and vineyards
Tasting articles A final report on a tricky vintage that produced some remarkably fresh and accessible wines. Today, reviews of wines from...
Valle de Guadalupe vineyards
Inside information Mexico’s wine industry offers lessons in dealing with climate challenges, says Mexico-based journalist and sommelier Carlos Borboa. Above, vineyards in...
Richard Hemming and Hiromi Ohno outside Sushi Oono
Vinomakase Richard’s new Vinomakase column explores how the experts match wine with Japanese cuisine. For the first edition, a traditional sushi...
Hops hang from the ceiling at Dylan's at The Kings Arms in St Albans
Bite-sized A 15th-century pub with bang-up-to-date feasting in the Cathedral Quarter of St Albans. The front bar is still reassuringly pubby...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.