The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | Wine writing competition

From an Australian optimist

• 4 min read
Tiers vineyard in Adelaide Hills, spring 2020

In the spring an old man's fancy lightly turns to cheering us all up. Brian Croser ruminates in the Adelaide Hills.

The annual cycle turns regardless of drought, bushfires and COVID-19. The wattles are in full blossom, the jonquils and daffodils are flowering, the magnolia and almond blossoms are just emerging and we are pruning Tiers Vineyard.

We are more than a month past the shortest day of the year and the plants have received their instructions from season control to begin a new cycle of growth, flowering, fruiting and finally senescence again. There is comfort in this inexorable cycle, the sort of certainty and predictability that is missing from the human condition currently, with more uncertainties than at any other stage of our generation’s lifespan and, by inference, for all human beings, bar perhaps the few who survived the Second World War and are still alive today.

Reflecting fleetingly on the months cradling the 2020 vintage and since, it would be understandable to feel victimised but the victims’ club is potentially large and not one that delivers much benefit to members.

It is more productive to put 201920 into historical perspective.

First and foremost among recent afflictions there is this particular coronavirus, killing hundreds of thousands of people around the globe, maiming many more and infecting more than 15 million people, spreading at an increasing rate. The economic consequences of containment of the virus will be visited on the next decades and likely transferred on to several future generations.

The only historical events that bear comparison were the Spanish flu of 191820 following on the heels of the carnage of the First World War, presaging the economically devastating Great Depression, which in turn sowed the seeds of the Second World War. Now that is a sequence of events that could lead to feelings of victimisation …

But no, those of us who grew up with grandparents and parents who survived all or part of that maelstrom of events know how tough-minded and resilient-bodied they were, how frugal of need, how cautious about over-ambition or any extravagance and how determined they were to make things better for future generations.

Well, here we are and to a very large extent they succeeded in their ambition. We are a fortunate cohort of Australians, largely owing to their hard work and innovative spirit, bestowing on their children and grandchildren the education never possible for themselves and succeeding in their determination to leave Australia a better place than they had inherited.

Vaccines and treatments for COVID-19 will be developed in this era of astounding technological achievement. Governments will coordinate their efforts to alleviate the economic hardships visited on their populations, and lessons will be learned even while we grieve for those who succumbed and nurse those who are damaged.

Pandemic aside (however hard that may be), the other demon unleashed on us Australians in 201920 were the bushfires. They have happened before in a recorded sequence of death and destruction across the Australian continent since European settlement and back through the 65,000-year tenure of the land by the first Australians. In 1981 and more ferociously in 1983 our vineyards were alight from Clare through the Adelaide Hills to Coonawarra. We were lucky to survive the 1983 fire at our Piccadilly Valley home site and winery.

I have been reading about some of my ancestors who settled at Narre Warren on the edge of the Dandenongs in the Yarra Valley and who were burnt out, along with most of Victoria, on Black Thursday 1851. I use this pervasive fire only as an early example of the many that have followed and that occur through our lifetimes on an all-too-regular basis.

Had governments listened to the Australian Bureau of Meteorology in 2019 they would have realised the inevitable and been better prepared to deal with the extraordinary sequence of fires across the south-east of Australia from September 2019 to February 2020. Again, there is cause for optimism as technology facilitates a better understanding and ability to predict short-term weather events, medium-term climate cycles and the long-term outlook of climate change.

In 2020 we have endured the most disrupted vintage for 37 years and, like 1983, it was a small vintage due to failure of fruit set. Perhaps that is fortunate given the public perception surrounding the fires and the effect of smoke on the crop. It is difficult to convince bank managers of our good fortune.

Back to the inexorable seasonal cycle. As the vines in Tiers are being pruned to ready them to deliver vintage 2021, their roots are already stirring, beginning the march to another harvest next year. The soil has a full belly of moisture after good early winter rains, and the possibility of a La Niña developing increases the chances of replete vines and a warm flowering followed by a moderate-temperature (maybe even cool) summer.

Good crops of high-quality fruit should be harvested, making great wines for a starved domestic market seeking quality and authenticity where supply has been limited by the successive small vintages of 2019 and 2020.

President Trump will calmly hand over power after November [are you sure, Brian? – JR] and once President Biden defuses the trade war with China, Australian wine will continue to flow into China.

The coronavirus will be controlled and restaurants will fully reopen. Consumers will value the local over overseas experiences and imports.

The vines will continue their inexorable cycle and the world will take a deep breath, better prepared for the future, while the benefits technology can deliver to fulfil our version of our ancestors’ promise to make the world better, with particular reference to the reduction of CO2 emissions.

Don’t tell me I am dreaming! The seasonal cycle will continue even if I am.

选择方案
会员
$135
/year
每年节省超过15%
适合葡萄酒爱好者
  • 存取 297,331 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,160 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
核心会员
$249
/year
 
适合收藏家

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
专业版
$299
/year
供个人葡萄酒专业人士使用
  • 存取 297,331 条葡萄酒点评 & 16,160 篇文章
  • 存取《牛津葡萄酒指南》《世界葡萄酒地图集》
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • 提前 48 小时获取最新葡萄酒点评与文章
  • 可将最多 25 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
商务版
$399
/year
供葡萄酒行业企业使用

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • 可将最多 250 条葡萄酒点评与评分 用于市场宣传(商业用途)
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Alaverdi Monastery, in Akhmeta, Kakheti
Free for all 格鲁吉亚的葡萄酒继续令人惊喜。本文的略短版本发表于Financial Times (金融时报)。另请参阅品鉴文章 格鲁吉亚白葡萄酒...
Markus and Eben Sadie at Berry Bros April 2026
Free for all 这家领先的新浪潮南非葡萄酒生产商正在展望未来。本文的一个版本由金融时报 发表。另请参阅这篇 帕拉迪乌斯垂直品鉴,他杰出的白葡萄酒混酿。...
Sam Neill
Free for all 杰西斯 (Jancis) 回忆她遇到过的最迷人的葡萄酒生产者。上图为尼尔 (Neill) 在他的双桨园 (Two Paddocks)...
A glass of Sauvignon Blanc at an airport bar
Free for all 在第一轮评审之后,我们很高兴开始发布今年写作比赛参赛作品中的最佳作品。所有入选作品均未经编辑发布...

More from JancisRobinson.com

The Crest Vineyard, terroir of Moutou
Wines of the week 拉法热酒庄 (Domaine Lafage) 来自加泰罗尼亚丘 (Côtes Catalanes) 的穆图 (Moutou) 不仅美味...
Dugladze amber Rkatsiteli, walnuts and shoti, bread cooked on the inside of an oven
Tasting articles 詹西斯深入探索这些独特的葡萄酒,尽管并未亲临这个独特的国度。上图来自生产商 杜格拉泽 (Dugladze) 的网站...
Penfolds Magill Estate chimney and vines
Tasting articles 大红葡萄酒继续在奔富王国占据主导地位,但变革即将到来。上图为奔富的玛吉尔庄园 (Magill Estate)。 澳大利亚葡萄酒管理局...
Boscareto vineyard in the snow
Tasting articles 沃尔特 (Walter) 关于这个显著易饮年份报告的总结部分。今天,评论来自南部和东部村庄卡斯蒂廖内法莱托 (Castiglione...
Barale estate and vineyards
Tasting articles 关于这个棘手年份的最终报告,如今展现出非凡的清新和易饮性。今天,我们将评鉴来自多个村庄以及北部和西部村庄凯拉斯科 (Cherasco)、罗迪...
Valle de Guadalupe vineyards
Inside information 墨西哥的葡萄酒产业为应对气候挑战提供了经验教训,常驻墨西哥的记者兼侍酒师卡洛斯·博尔博亚 (Carlos Borboa) 如是说...
Richard Hemming and Hiromi Ohno outside Sushi Oono
Vinomakase 理查德 (Richard) 的新专栏 Vinomakase 探讨专家如何将葡萄酒与日本料理搭配...
Hops hang from the ceiling at Dylan's at The Kings Arms in St Albans
Bite-sized 位于圣奥尔本斯 (St Albans) 大教堂区的一家 15 世纪酒吧,提供最新潮的美食盛宴。 前厅酒吧仍然令人安心地保持着酒吧风格...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.