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Barbaresco 2020 – the tasting notes

Tuesday 25 July 2023 • 6 min read
Luca Pasquero-Elia

Following Walter's overview of the challenging 2020 vintage, here he reviews a mixed bag of 93 wines, with some exceptional ones that are worth seeking out. Walter's photo shows Paitin's Luca Pasquero-Elia.

The wines are grouped by commune and within the communes by MGA (menzione geografica aggiuntiva, ie named vineyard), ordered alphabetically.

Intercommunal blends

Red

50% Roncaglie (Barbaresco), 35% Starderi (Neive), 15% Ronchi (Barbaresco).
Youthful, just mid ruby. Lifted, sweetly spiced raspberry fruit and an elegant, complex, dry oak note. Embryonic and compact and with succulent acidity. Firm, chewy tannins and with fantastic length. Already delicious. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2030
Red

Aged for 12 months in French tonneaux and barriques, 10% new oak, followed by 12 months in large Gamba and Stockinger casks of Slavonian oak. ‘In 2008 we began with the gradual exchange of the large oak casks that were already used by my grandfather.’ Now their oldest oak cask is 15 years old. This wine was bottled at the beginning of June and has just been released.
Youthful, just mid ruby. Expressive, cool, sweetly perfumed red-fruit nose with a whiff of spicy new oak. Elegant, fresh raspberry fruit and with lively acidity and crunchy tannins that stick to the palate. Vibrant. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2030
Red

Mid ruby with bright orange tinges. Seductive oak and perfumed sour-cherry-fruit nose. Oaked, supple red-fruit palate that is easy-going and pleasant, with chewy, long tannins. Turns slightly sour on the finish. Ready now. (WS)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2023 – 2030
Red

Just mid ruby. Sour cherry with stalky top notes. Soft, mellow cherry fruit with a bit of acidity and soft, drying tannins. Slight heat on the finish. A bit simple, but serviceable. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2026
Red

Pale ruby with orange tinges. Dark spice notes on a rather shy fruit nose. A light, soft but long strawberry-fruit palate with soft, chewy tannins. Pretty and a credible expression of what looks like a challenging vintage. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Mid-to-deep ruby with orange tinges. Discreet, peppery red-fruit nose with a hint of iron. Easy-going, supple fruit with soft tannins. Well made but more like a Langhe Nebbiolo and a bit of a lightweight. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2026

Alba

Red

Alba. Just mid ruby. Minerally, saline nose that is still a little closed. Marasca cherry fruit with firm, chewy tannins. Quite light fruit but pretty nonetheless. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Rizzi

Red

Alba. Just mid ruby with orange tinges. A round, soft red-fruit nose with candied fruit hints but more complex than it sounds. Sweet, long and supple and with powdery tannins on the finish. Not enormously complex but a very inviting kind of wine. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Alba. Mid ruby with bright orange tinges. Brooding red-fruit nose with spicy, salty notes. Very compact and closed on the palate and could do with a tad more fruit to match the firm, chewy tannins. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Alba. Just mid ruby. Minerally nose with hints of iron and a suggestion of fennel seeds. Elegant, almost a little light on the palate, becoming more complex and certainly more tannic on the finish. Has the bones to age. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2030

Rocche Massalupo

Red

Alba. Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Serious, deep and sweet cherry- and wild-strawberry-fruit nose, with a pinch of pinewood. Succulent fruit that is light of touch but closes up on the finish. Quite muscular, big tannins but long and aromatic at the same time. Could do with another year in bottle. (WS)

Drink: 2024 – 2032

Barbaresco

Red

Barbaresco. Youthful mid ruby. A proper, concentrated fruit nose, which this vintage is woefully short of. Subtle marasca cherry palate with lots of finely ground tannins; head and shoulders above the rest. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2030
Red

Barbaresco. Maturing mid ruby with orange tinges. Subtly oaked, soft red-fruit nose that increases in depth with aeration. Soft, juicy strawberry palate that is a little fleeting on the finish. (WS)

Drink: 2023 – 2028

Asili

Red

Barbaresco. Mid-to-deep ruby with orange tinges. Subtle raspberry nose with just a pinch of savoury oak. Soft raspberry fruit with just the right amount of grainy tannins. Juicy and just a little light. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Maturing mid ruby with bright orange tinges. Pretty, soft oak and strawberry-fruit nose. Light and pleasant but not up to cru level and fading a little on the finish. (WS)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Balsamic nose that is closed on the fruit. Light strawberry fruit on the palate with gripping but not hard tannins. Elegant but not hugely long. (WS)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Faset

Red

Barbaresco. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Oak and spicy notes but with little fruit emerging from the glass. Light strawberry fruit pepped up by the oak. A tiny bit simple and ready now. (WS)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Just mid ruby. Firm, perfumed, sweet red-fruit nose with an undertow of minerals. Finely tuned fruit on the palate with a layer of super-fine, deep, crunchy tannins. Still needs to unfurl but has a great future. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2024 – 2034
Red

Barbaresco. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Firm, spicy nose but still a little closed on the fruit. Stalky, spicy cherry fruit, which could be a little purer, and loaded with grainy tannins on the finish. Ends a tiny bit bitter. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Martinenga

Red

Barbaresco. Mid ruby with bright orange tinges. Fine and generous on the nose and with posh oak notes. Fragrant, supple strawberry fruit that is light of touch. Long, fine tannins and plenty of acidity, but overall could do with a little more fruit. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Montaribaldi

Red

Barbaresco. Just mid ruby. Very closed on the nose with only a suggestion of savoury spice. Fragrant and light strawberry palate with crunchy tannins. Not a heavyweight by any stretch of the imagination, but certainly more than pleasant. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Montestefano

Red

Barbaresco. Deep ruby. Lots of ripe strawberry fruit on the nose and already a little evolved. Generous strawberry and sour-cherry fruit on the palate, with soft, chewy tannins. Ready to go. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Balsamic cherry nose with hints of mint and gingerbread. Soft and ripe fruit balanced by acidity and soft, long tannins. Sour-cherry finish. Not showing huge depth but, overall, certainly satisfying. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Muncagöta

Red

Barbaresco. Impressively dark ruby. Concentrated dark fruit with minty oak on the nose. Smooth cherry fruit with touches of vanilla from the oak and long, powdery tannins. Quite a bit of acidity, too, adding freshness. (WS)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Ovello

Red

Barbaresco. Just mid ruby. Balsamic nose with a hint of Band-Aid. Savoury, juicy strawberry fruit with a hint of saffron and powdery tannins. A little disappointing for this cru. (WS)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Mid ruby with bright orange tinges. Ethereal marasca cherry nose and with a suggestion of eucalyptus. Very light of touch but with a long, aromatic finish where chewy tannins show up. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Morassino is a historic lieu-dit in the Ovello MGA.
Mid ruby with orange tinges. A leafy, shy cherry nose and a shy, light cherry-fruit palate. A little underwhelming. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Pora

Red

Barbaresco. Mid ruby. A pretty strawberry nose with a little lift and touches of gingerbread. Succulent, ripe and round on the palate. Not the most complex, but more than average. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Rabajà

Red

Barbaresco. Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Subdued fruit nose with balsamic spice notes. Soft and almost rich strawberry fruit with a muscular structure and a little tart on the finish, but with a long fruit aroma. (WS)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Lustrous mid ruby. Quite subdued on the nose and balsamic rather than fruity. A hint of fennel. A core of soft strawberry fruit framed by firm, chewy tannins. Not hugely long but satisfying. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Just mid ruby with orange tinges. A deep spice nose hinting at balsamic fruit and iron. Light but aromatic fruit palate with fine, chewy tannins that take the lead on the finish. (WS)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Concentrated mid ruby. Balsamic cherry and strawberry nose with a hint of cinnamon bark. Supple and lush strawberry fruit with firm, finely ground tannins. A tiny bit jammy on the finish, but at least it has fruit concentration, which quite a few wines lack in this vintage. Ready now. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Rabajà-Bas

Red

Barbaresco. Mid ruby with bright orange tinges. A shy, leafy cherry nose. Soft cherry fruit with long, powdery tannins. A little more substantial than their Rabajà but with the same lightness of touch on the palate. (WS)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Rio Sordo

Red

Barbaresco. Lustrous ruby with orange tinges. Lift and concentration on the nose. Ripe red fruit with a peppery tingle and a hint of oak. Supple, concentrated and with firm, slightly drying tannins – this has great fruit length and a real future. Ends a tad warm. (WS)

Drink: 2023 – 2030
Red

Barbaresco. Lustrous mid ruby. Ripe, rich morello cherry nose with a hint of laurel. Has a perfumed quality to it. Lush cherry and raspberry fruit with firm but finely chiselled tannins. Completely ready. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Lustrous mid ruby. A pretty, ripe raspberry nose with minerally, salty touches. Elegant and lithe fruit palate with lots of powdery tannins but seems to fade a little on the finish. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Roncaglie

Red

Barbaresco. Youthful, mid ruby. At first, a little compact and subdued on the nose. With aeration, an amazing amalgam of garden herbs and liquorice powder and with complex cherry fruit lurking underneath. Super-elegant palate weight with great fruit purity. Finely ground, long tannins and nervy acidity. Quite a stunner. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2036
Red

Barbaresco. Mid ruby with orange tinges. A fine cherry- and raspberry-fruit nose with subtle oak notes. Sweet strawberry and raspberry fruit on the palate with gravelly tannins. Not the most complex but convincing for this vintage. (WS)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

Barbaresco. Youthful mid ruby. Deep marasca cherry-fruit nose. Supple marasca cherry fruit that fades just a tiny bit on the finish. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Roncagliette

Red

Barbaresco. Roncagliette. Bottled at the beginning of 2023 and will be released in September.
Just mid ruby. An amplified version of the Classico but with more depth and complexity and an undertow of stones. Same elegant leggerezza – lightness of touch on the palate – but with a firmer, finely chiselled tannic structure that is quite present now and frames the fine, fresh but completely dry, elegant raspberry fruit. Still tightly wound. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2024 – 2036
Red

Barbaresco. A shade deeper than the Costa Russi. Deep, youthful and just mid crimson. Gorgeous, layered raspberry fruit with a savoury, minerally undertow. Finely tuned, with hardly perceptible oak. Great concentration of cool raspberry fruit that is wonderfully light of touch on the palate. Firm but fine tannins on the finish, while the cool fruit closes up. Pure leggerezza (lightness of touch) combined with tannic muscle – that of an athlete, not a body builder. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2026 – 2038

Ronchi

Red

Barbaresco. Concentrated mid ruby. Brooding cherry nose with a hint of Band-Aid, and a cherry-fruit palate with a note of saffron. The finish is purer and with quite a bit of acidity and lots of powdery tannins. Might improve with age? (WS)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Secondine

Red

Barbaresco. Youthful, shiny mid ruby. Lifted, fresh and focused on the nose and with surprising depth and energy. Compact and elegant yet gripping palate with layered, concentrated fruit, nervy acidity and long, deep, sandy tannins creating the perfect balance. Needs more time to open, but already extremely pretty. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2026 – 2038
Red

Barbaresco. Pale ruby with orange tinges. Leafy and light nose with hints of strawberry. Light strawberry-fruit palate with a suggestion of saffron. Long, aromatic, sweet fruit finish, but overall a bit light. (WS)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2023 – 2028

Tre

...
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