Berry Bros go east, and north, south and west

Berry's spring tasting was an eclectic collection and, indulgently, I picked the regions that most piqued my interest. It was a vagabond journey, starting in the chilly northern hills of Champagne (because those of us in the UK need some fizz to perk up this dreary cold excuse of a spring), heading gradually further south and further east until I landed up in the golden triangle of Liaoning province, China.

Three sweet spots along the way gave me reason to pause. The first was in Vouvray – the minerals-and-sunlight wines of Vincent Carême. Vincent and his South African wife Tania...