Burgundy 2018 – H–K

For the rest of these alphabetically grouped tasting articles, and more general articles on Burgundy 2018, see our guide. Pierre-Henry Gagey of Louis Jadot is pictured here.

The wines are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus. You can change the order as you prefer using the menu below.

Mark Haisma (Gilly-les-Cîteaux)

Mark Haisma, A Bogun in Bogundy 2018 Vin de France

60% Chardonnay, 40% Aligoté. Intended to be a relaxed and laid-back wine, outside the regulations, so Vin de France in 2018. Large oak. Bogan will always be for Burgundy-sourced wines. Tank sample, to be bottled in March.
Herbal tone, with light citrus and gooseberry. Brisk, clean, straightforward apple. Quaffable. (TJ)

12.5%
Drink
2020
2021
14.5

Mark Haisma 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté

Hautes-Côtes fruit. Older vines than those that go into the Bogan. Stainless-steel and 500-litre oak maturation. Tank sample.
Green apple and herbs, with a touch of flint. Crisp, crunchy and refreshing. Moderate length. (TJ)

12.5%
Drink
2020
2021
15

Mark Haisma 2018 St-Romain

Two lieux-dits, Le Jarron and Le Village. These were bottled separately in 2013 and 2014, but now they are working well together, blending the bolder Village with the mineral-style Jarron. Mostly fermented in 15–20% new barriques, with some 500-litre oak as well. Tank sample.
Delicately scented baking spice, with some white flower and bright citrus. Firm acidity gives structure to the wine, with some chalky mineral flavour as a counterpoint to the thread of ripe citrus. Attractive. (TJ)

Drink
2021
2026
16

Mark Haisma, Sous la Velle 2018 Meursault

New wine. From lower sections, to give a richer, fuller style of Chardonnay. Two barrels, one new. Tank sample.
Just a hint of reduction, beneath which is a blend of stone fruit and yellow apple. Medium-full bodied with a bit of chew, the new oak is more evident in a nutty, spicy mid palate. Creamy finish. (TJ)

Drink
2022
2028
16

Mark Haisma 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet

Second vintage, blending red-soiled La Goujonne (better known for Pinot Noir) along with En Pimont that has more steely character. Three barrels, one new, one a year old and one older. Tank sample.
Notable toasted almond with a touch of baked apple or ripe peach. Brisk and lively, with a core of flinty minerality to bring a different dimension. (TJ)

Drink
2021
2028
16.5

Mark Haisma, La Maltroie Premier Cru 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet

Only available in higher-volume vintages, so the grower can spare some of his 4–6 barrels, in exchange for some of Mark’s Gevrey. One barrel. Tank sample.
Beautiful integration of flint, dill, citrus fruit and subtle almond oak notes. Taut and minerally, with pretty good length. Needs time. (TJ)

Drink
2024
2030
16.5

Mark Haisma, A Bogun in Bogundy 2018 Coteaux Bourguignons

30% Gamay and 70% Pinot Noir blend, currently a Côteaux Bourguignons but could be Passetoutgrains in future, depending on fruit sourcing. Co-planted and co-fermented Gamay and Pinot Noir, making the picking date tricky. The original Bogan blend.
Black and red fruit, some herbal lift and some peppery tannins. Straightforward. (TJ)

Drink
2020
2022
14.5

Mark Haisma Pinot Noir 2018 Bourgogne

Blend of Pommard and Gevrey fruit. 1–2 new barriques out of 15 in total.
Touch of dusty, earthiness, with an attractive density of black fruit. Firm, slightly rustic tannic load punches through the palate though. With time maybe? (TJ)

Drink
2024
2028
15 +

Mark Haisma 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin

Three lieux-dits blended: Croix des Champs, La Justice and Aux Corvées. 50% whole bunches. 20% new oak.
Rich nose of baking spice, some fresh earth, dried herbs and ripe, red cherry. A really appealing, slaty, stony minerality on the palate. Plenty of structure but has the depth and length for it. (TJ)

Drink
2024
2030
16.5 +

Mark Haisma, Ez Echards 2018 Volnay

Change of lieu-dit (also spelled Les Echards) from previous vintages. Picked very early on 25 August, which was typical in Volnay for 2018.
Just a hint of oxidation here, but doesn’t detract too much. Ripe, rich red and black fruit, graphite and fatness. Sweet and spicy, with peppery tannins and moderate acidity. Fair length. (TJ)

Drink
2023
2028
15.5 +

Mark Haisma, Les Chaffots Premier Cru 2018 Morey-St-Denis

Steep plot above Clos St-Denis. 60–70% whole bunches. Five barrels.
Scented, coriander seed and red-cherry nose that suggests delicacy, but the palate is firmly structured and smoky. Long, perfumed finish. (TJ)

Drink
2025
2040
17 +

Mark Haisma, Clos des Arvelets Premier Cru 2018 Pommard

Stony, exposed vineyard. Some whole bunches.
Deep, black-fruit nose with a nutty oak note and a flinty undertow. Firm, but quite fine tannins with a floral, long finish. Structured, but not rustic. Good length. (TJ)

Drink
2024
2029
16.5

Mark Haisma, Grand Cru 2018 Échezeaux

Whole bunches but with the main stem removed, taking five people 4–5 hours to complete! One, 1-year-old barrel.
Layered and complete, with subtle cinnamon, stones, earth, ripe red cherry and spice. Firm, very fine tannins, with a tense, tight, but long finish. This will be a very fine wine. (TJ)

Drink
2028
2042
18

Domaine des Hâtes, Maison des Hâtes (Chablis)

Dom des Hâtes 2018 Petit Chablis

Dusty and herbal, more stony than fruity. Then a lovely surprise of fruit on the palate, citrus and with a light leesy texture. Impressive intensity for a Petit Chablis. (JH)

Drink
2020
2023
£105 per case of 12 ib Stannary St Wine Co
16

Dom des Hâtes 2018 Chablis

Complex without being obviously fruity on the nose. Creamy, tight and smooth on the finish even though it is so fresh. Great length. (JH)

Drink
2021
2025
£125 per case of 12 ib Stannary St Wine Co
16.5

Dom des Hâtes, Les Châtillons 2018 Chablis

Tank sample, 25% barrel fermented. Long ageing in tank after blending.
Riper nose with more citrus and a hint of the oak but it is subtle. Tight but rounded on the finish but not sure it has more intensity in the middle than the straight Chablis. (JH)<

Drink
2021
2026
£140 per case of 12 ib Stannary St Wine Co
16.5

Dom des Hâtes, L'Homme Mort Premier Cru 2018 Chablis

Absolutely classic Chablis nose: it is not that there is no fruit, but the stony character dominates the citrus. A bit dilute on the palate – disappointing after the nose. (JH)

Drink
2022
2025
£205 per case of 12 ib Stannary St Wine Co
16

Les Hauts de Milly (Milly)

Les Hauts de Milly 2018 Chablis

Creamy texture with a leafy note to the palate that leaves a slightly bitter twang on the finish. Is there an underripe element here? (RH)

Drink
2020
2021
£23.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
15.5

Les Hauts de Milly Chardonnay 2018 Bourgogne

Neutral fruit, a touch of toffee and chalkiness, better-than-average concentration, but quick to fade on the finish. Not a bargain, but not a rip-off either. (RH)

Drink
2020
2022
£18.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
16

Les Hauts de Milly, Montpalais Premier Cru 2018 Rully

Sweetly spiced oak that the stewed-apple fruit struggles to keep up with, although there's a pleasant flinty note on the finish. Balanced, soft acidity. (RH)

Drink
2020
2022
£31.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
16

Domaine Heitz-Lochardet (Chassagne-Montrachet)

Dom Heitz-Lochardet, Les Gruyaches 2018 Meursault

Ripe and invitingly creamy on the nose. A touch of clementine. Good balance between the ripeness of fruit and the mouth-watering citrus. Tight and bright and zippy. (JH)

Drink
2021
2024
£225 per case of 6 ib Stannary St Wine Co
16.5

Dom Heitz-Lochardet, Les Boucherottes Premier Cru 2018 Beaune

100% whole bunch. Tank sample.
Mid cherry red. Sweeter red fruit of the Côte de Beaune. Juicy and bright and very de nos jours in its light, dry, fine-boned style, slightly stemmy/herbal fresh. Pure-fruited and mouth-watering, decent length too. (JH)

Drink
2023
2029
£185 per case of 6 ib Stannary St Wine Co
16.5

Dom Heitz-Lochardet, Clos des Poutures Premier Cru 2018 Pommard

50% whole bunch. Tank sample.
Lightish cherry red. Inviting peppery red-fruited freshness on the nose. Delicate but really persistent, the tannins extremely fine. Juicy and elegant. (JH)

Drink
2022
2028
£275 per case of 6 ib Stannary St Wine Co
16.5

Dom Heitz-Lochardet, Les Pézerolles Premier Cru 2018 Pommard

100% whole bunch. Tank sample.
Darker and more spicy on the nose than the Poutures. You can smell that whole-bunch herbal, peppery character but it is not excessive and very inviting. Unexpectedly creamy in texture, lovely contrast/complement overall. Great length. (JH)

Drink
2023
2030
£295 per case of 6 ib Stannary St Wine Co
17

Domaine d'Henri (Chablis)

Picking in 2018 began on 5 September and the volumes harvested...

Pierre-Henry Gagey of Louis Jadot