Burgundy 2018 – H–K

60% Chardonnay, 40% Aligoté. Intended to be a relaxed and laid-back wine, outside the regulations, so Vin de France in 2018. Large oak. Bogan will always be for Burgundy-sourced wines. Tank sample, to be bottled in March.
Herbal tone, with light citrus and gooseberry. Brisk, clean, straightforward apple. Quaffable. (TJ)

Hautes-Côtes fruit. Older vines than those that go into the Bogan. Stainless-steel and 500-litre oak maturation. Tank sample.
Green apple and herbs, with a touch of flint. Crisp, crunchy and refreshing. Moderate length. (TJ)

Two lieux-dits, Le Jarron and Le Village. These were bottled separately in 2013 and 2014, but now they are working well together, blending the bolder Village with the mineral-style Jarron. Mostly fermented in 15–20% new barriques, with some 500-litre oak as well. Tank sample.
Delicately scented baking spice, with some white flower and bright citrus. Firm acidity gives structure to the wine, with some chalky mineral flavour as a counterpoint to the thread of ripe citrus. Attractive. (TJ)

New wine. From lower sections, to give a richer, fuller style of Chardonnay. Two barrels, one new. Tank sample.
Just a hint of reduction, beneath which is a blend of stone fruit and yellow apple. Medium-full bodied with a bit of chew, the new oak is more evident in a nutty, spicy mid palate. Creamy finish. (TJ)

Second vintage, blending red-soiled La Goujonne (better known for Pinot Noir) along with En Pimont that has more steely character. Three barrels, one new, one a year old and one older. Tank sample.
Notable toasted almond with a touch of baked apple or ripe peach. Brisk and lively, with a core of flinty minerality to bring a different dimension. (TJ)

Only available in higher-volume vintages, so the grower can spare some of his 4–6 barrels, in exchange for some of Mark’s Gevrey. One barrel. Tank sample.
Beautiful integration of flint, dill, citrus fruit and subtle almond oak notes. Taut and minerally, with pretty good length. Needs time. (TJ)

30% Gamay and 70% Pinot Noir blend, currently a Côteaux Bourguignons but could be Passetoutgrains in future, depending on fruit sourcing. Co-planted and co-fermented Gamay and Pinot Noir, making the picking date tricky. The original Bogan blend.
Black and red fruit, some herbal lift and some peppery tannins. Straightforward. (TJ)

Blend of Pommard and Gevrey fruit. 1–2 new barriques out of 15 in total.
Touch of dusty, earthiness, with an attractive density of black fruit. Firm, slightly rustic tannic load punches through the palate though. With time maybe? (TJ)

Three lieux-dits blended: Croix des Champs, La Justice and Aux Corvées. 50% whole bunches. 20% new oak.
Rich nose of baking spice, some fresh earth, dried herbs and ripe, red cherry. A really appealing, slaty, stony minerality on the palate. Plenty of structure but has the depth and length for it. (TJ)

Change of lieu-dit (also spelled Les Echards) from previous vintages. Picked very early on 25 August, which was typical in Volnay for 2018.
Just a hint of oxidation here, but doesn’t detract too much. Ripe, rich red and black fruit, graphite and fatness. Sweet and spicy, with peppery tannins and moderate acidity. Fair length. (TJ)

Steep plot above Clos St-Denis. 60–70% whole bunches. Five barrels.
Scented, coriander seed and red-cherry nose that suggests delicacy, but the palate is firmly structured and smoky. Long, perfumed finish. (TJ)

Stony, exposed vineyard. Some whole bunches.
Deep, black-fruit nose with a nutty oak note and a flinty undertow. Firm, but quite fine tannins with a floral, long finish. Structured, but not rustic. Good length. (TJ)

Whole bunches but with the main stem removed, taking five people 4–5 hours to complete! One, 1-year-old barrel.
Layered and complete, with subtle cinnamon, stones, earth, ripe red cherry and spice. Firm, very fine tannins, with a tense, tight, but long finish. This will be a very fine wine. (TJ)

Dusty and herbal, more stony than fruity. Then a lovely surprise of fruit on the palate, citrus and with a light leesy texture. Impressive intensity for a Petit Chablis. (JH)

Complex without being obviously fruity on the nose. Creamy, tight and smooth on the finish even though it is so fresh. Great length. (JH)

Tank sample, 25% barrel fermented. Long ageing in tank after blending.
Riper nose with more citrus and a hint of the oak but it is subtle. Tight but rounded on the finish but not sure it has more intensity in the middle than the straight Chablis. (JH)

Bottled. Clean and precise though not a knock-out. Sturdy and correct with a hint of fatness. (JR)

Absolutely classic Chablis nose: it is not that there is no fruit, but the stony character dominates the citrus. A bit dilute on the palate – disappointing after the nose. (JH)

Creamy texture with a leafy note to the palate that leaves a slightly bitter twang on the finish. Is there an underripe element here? (RH)

Neutral fruit, a touch of toffee and chalkiness, better-than-average concentration, but quick to fade on the finish. Not a bargain, but not a rip-off either. (RH)

Sweetly spiced oak that the stewed-apple fruit struggles to keep up with, although there's a pleasant flinty note on the finish. Balanced, soft acidity. (RH)

Soft and fleshy for Chablis, with baked apple and sweet spice, but limited concentration and length. (RH)

Plenty of citrus under a light steely/smoky overlay. Light on the mid palate but pure and very fresh. (JH)

Ripe and invitingly creamy on the nose. A touch of clementine. Good balance between the ripeness of fruit and the mouth-watering citrus. Tight and bright and zippy. (JH)

More obviously oaky than the Meursault Les Gruyaches but in creamy texture not a lot of oaky flavour, and there’s a steeliness too. Tight and citrusy on the palate with notable persistence. (JH)

50/50 Pinot and Gamay, the latter whole bunch. Bottled.
Mid crimson. Leafy, fresh, dry-textured but juicy on the finish. Fun and lively but not overly simple. (JH)

100% whole bunch. Tank sample.
Mid cherry red. Sweeter red fruit of the Côte de Beaune. Juicy and bright and very de nos jours in its light, dry, fine-boned style, slightly stemmy/herbal fresh. Pure-fruited and mouth-watering, decent length too. (JH)

50% whole bunch. Tank sample.
Lightish cherry red. Inviting peppery red-fruited freshness on the nose. Delicate but really persistent, the tannins extremely fine. Juicy and elegant. (JH)

100% whole bunch. Tank sample.
Darker and more spicy on the nose than the Poutures. You can smell that whole-bunch herbal, peppery character but it is not excessive and very inviting. Unexpectedly creamy in texture, lovely contrast/complement overall. Great length. (JH)