In February, at the annual presentation of new releases in Florence, Chianti Classico was the first of Italy’s most hallowed wine regions to show vintages 2024 and 2023 in any breadth or depth. This large-scale trade tasting is watched closely by Brunello di Montalcino, its neighbour, as a barometer of the international market and its reaction to price and quality.
Both vintages are notorious due to the unprecedented events they threw at producers; no...