When I moved to Melbourne in the early 1990s Gippsland was seen as one of a few cool-climate wine regions then emerging on the fringes of the city.
Like the Yarra Valley or the Mornington Peninsula, Gippsland – a huge region that stretches east all the way to the border with New South Wales – boasted a handful of pioneering, visionary, self-taught winemakers who’d planted vines in the 1970s and 1980s, driven by a dream of...
