HH&C's new French finds

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I was sent these relatively new additions to the list of UK wine merchant Haynes Hanson & Clark (though Pierre Vaudon NV has been the name of their Union Champagne bottling since wine writers Charles Metcalfe and Kathryn McWhirter were wed – coming up for 30 years ago) with an enthusiastic endorsement from one of the younger members of their team. But I'm afraid that I found it difficult to share that enthusiasm.

With Anthony Hanson MW on the original team, HH&C have long had an excellent range of burgundies, and I was impressed by the value offered by their...