18 November 2022 Oregon was once the go-to for great-value Pinot Noir. It’s a lot tougher these days to find value options, says Samantha Cole-Johnson, but these tips and wine recommendations will help.
Only a few decades ago, an ‘under $30 values’ report on Oregon wine would have been amusing to both producers and consumers. The reason being that, at that time, there was at least as much good wine in Oregon under $30 as over $30. While the state had a growing reputation for Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley, it still functioned as a lesser-known region prized by educated consumers who loved the wines of Burgundy and California but were looking for less-expensive alternatives.
In 2022, things have changed. The quality of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir has been acknowledged worldwide. Last year Willamette Valley was recognised as a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) by the EU. It is only the second US wine region, after Napa Valley, to receive this recognition. Oregon is also the only state on the US west coast to have seen sustained wine volume growth, as well as wine value growth, since 2018. The Willamette Valley AVA has carried this growth.
Predictably, this has meant that land prices have risen as producers have flocked to the Willamette Valley. As planted acreage has gone up, so has demand for vineyard stewards, increasing labour prices. Both stressors have contributed to rising wine prices, as has the changing structure of the wine industry.
Willamette, and Oregon more generally, has long been a familial place (see Adelsheim’s Founders’ Stories podcast). These family wineries have often been willing to accept a business capable of covering overheads and a workable, if not always comfortable, salary for themselves and family members. But as the region has grown in prestige, the rate of acquisition has increased, such that, of the founding families, only Elk Cove, Sokol Blosser, Oak Knoll and The Eyrie remain under the original family’s ownership. Corporate investment has increased the focus on creating growth and returns for investors, often leading to increased volume and standardisation at entry-level prices and increased premium offerings at higher price points. However, it’s not all bad news for seekers of affordable Pinot Noir. Having just tasted 72 Oregon Pinot Noirs priced at $30 or less, I’ve found that high production does not mean lesser quality.
While Oregon’s reputation was built on small-production (under 5,000-case) wineries, the variability in resources and in the experience of winemakers at small operations means that in my recent tastings, the smaller producers accounted for both the best and worst wines I tasted (barring one). In contrast, large-production winemaking teams showed themselves to be skilled in keeping consistency, stability and varietal typicality. This was especially evident in Pinot Noirs (I’ll write about non-Pinot Noir value picks from Oregon next week), with Union Wine Company’s labels Alchemist and Amity Vineyards (acquired in 2014), King Estate and Willamette Valley Vineyard proving that large-production wine can often outperform small in terms of quality for under $30.
In the 15 wines below, you’ll find that the one 2018 shows the vintage to be ripe and warm. The 2019s tend to be restrained and well balanced, with most begging another year for full integration of acidity and tannins (it was cool and wet). 2020, unfortunately, is absent due to a high number of smoke-affected wines, and 2021 swings back to opulent, ripe, warm wines of which most are quite ready to drink now. While the Willamette Valley is responsible for the largest number of high-quality Pinot Noirs in the list below, look also to Columbia Gorge, also represented here.
Some of my favourites under $30 are listed below, currently ordered alphabetically by producer name but you can change this.
Pale ruby with a hint of purple. Bright and juicy on the nose...
Screwcap.
Pale ruby in colour. Red cherry, pine and forest floor...
Screwcap. B Corp certified.
Pale ruby with a hint of purple...
Pale ruby in colour. Sweet black and red cherry on the nose with...
Pale ruby. Medium intensity on the nose with sweet black-cherry...
Pale purple in colour. Warm black-cherry nose. Weighty and ripe...
Pale ruby in colour. Red and black cherry on the nose and a...
Pale ruby in colour. Savoury with a microbial earthy quality on...
Screwcap. Certified sustainable by LIVE.
Pale ruby in colour...
Pale ruby in colour. A lovely dry-leaf and ripe red-cherry nose...
Pale ruby in colour. Black cherry and yogurt on the nose with a...
Pale ruby in colour. Stemmy nose with black cherry, bramble and...
Certified sustainable by LIVE.
Pale ruby in colour. Really ripe...
Medium ruby in colour. A bit quiet on the nose with subtle red...
Screwcap.
Pale ruby in colour. Sweet, ripe and jammy fruit on...
