‘Linguine, stop it!’
I was trying to have a telephone call with Tim Phillips, but his chickens had other ideas. When they eventually left him alone, he told me a startling statistic: one hectare of vines needs approximately 1,000 hours of labour a year, not including harvest, whereas one apple tree requires just 40 minutes. In his walled-garden vineyard near the New Forest in Hampshire, Phillips makes some of England’s most distinctive wines under the Charlie Herring label, including one of...