In praise of sweetness, and Orvieto

There's nothing whatever wrong with a tiny bit of well-balanced residual sugar, especially when it's historic. We were going to publish this account of Barberani, Luigi e Giovanna 2016 Orvieto Classico Superiore as a wine of the week but alas it does not seem to be sufficiently widely available. No point in wasting Walter's heartfelt plea though....

Find the 2016 – from €28.50 in Italy and Spain

Find the 2015 – from 39 Swiss francs, €38, $50.99

Sweetness is a taste most people crave but one largely frowned upon in wine. Sweetness is complicated and can be deceitful. Many...

Bernardo and Niccolò Barberani, producers of Orvieto wine