A decade ago, when an oenologist friend and I produced a small range of wines in an old, rundown co-op in the very west of Sicily near Erice, 35 km (22 miles) west of Marsala, we stumbled on a large old oak barrel tucked away in a storage area.
The barrel contained Ambrato, considered the co-op’s most precious wine. Amber-coloured and unfortified...
