So what are those 2009 vintage ports like?

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With his left hand in plaster after a cycling mishap, Adrian Bridge of the Taylor Fladgate Partnership was in London last Friday to show off the 2009 vintage ports that they had just 'declared', as (fairly young) tradition dictates on St George's Day (23 April). This was not a universal decision in Oporto, as we outlined in Shippers disagree over 2009 vintage port.

The suitably traditional-with-a-modern-twist Soho restaurant Quo Vadis was chosen as a location since it was only a bottle's throw from Majestic's big, concurrent tasting, and we wine writers and a few handpicked likely customers had a...