Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story | 🎁 25% off annual & gift memberships

Spain 2020 – a miscellany

Thursday 21 January 2021
Sota el Angels in Empordà

The final part of Ferran's report on wines of particular interest tasted when he was confined to his Barcelona home by the pandemic. See also Spain 2020 exciting newcomers and Spain 2020 – established players' news. Above, Sota els Àngels in Empordà in the far north-east of Spain.

The 12 wines below are listed in alphabetical order by producer, but you can reorder them as you wish.

Red

40-year-old Bobal vines located at 400–600 m above sea level in Requena, Valencia. Aged for 4 months in French oak and 2 months in clay eggs.
This has a rather organic-compost-like nose completed by blueberries, a herbal minty note, smoke and white pepper. It is all about freedom of expression and fluidity: unforced. Slightly harsh tannin, very well-managed bitterness and crunchy acidity. Very fun and a pleasant wine to enjoy while it is young. (FC)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2020 – 2023
Red

The name comes from the 92 barrels where the wine has rested for more than 300 days.
Lots of ripe and youthful black-fruit aromas. Quite complex with toast, smoke and a particularly attractive orange-peel note. Animated acidity, despite its evident ripeness. Very voluminous wine with a trace of bitterness on the aftertaste. (FC)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2020 – 2025
Red

40% Carabuñeira, 20% Sousón, 20% Brancellao, 10% Espadeiro, 10% Garnacha. Destemmed grapes. Spontaneous fermentation. Duration of fermentation: 10–12 days, with punching down three times per day. Aged for 14 months in French oak barrels of 300 and 600 litres.
Plentiful red fruits and a white-pepper touch. Easy drinking, well-managed oak, a no-risks wine. On the palate, it is delicate and has vivid fruit expression. However, I wouldn’t wait much longer to drink it. Earthy profile. (FC)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2020 – 2026
Red

40% Caiño Longo, 40% Sousón, 20% Brancellao. Blend of 2013 and 2014 harvests. Ageing in French oak. Production of 440 bottles. Sweet wine without fortification.
Characteristic dry raisin notes on the nose: figs, raisins, caramel, burnt sugar, toffee and a hint of nail varnish amplifying the complexity. However, the surprise comes on the palate, less sweet than expected and way more complex. The toast from the oak is more present with magnificent positive notes of evolution. It has brilliant acidity that makes the wine agile with gorgeous drinkability. A sweet wine not only for dessert. Astonishing! (FC)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2020 – 2030
White

Viognier and Verdil. The latter is quite a rare variety, difficult to find and native to Valencia. There are currently only 50 ha in the world.
White and tropical fruit, apple, pear, mango, dry flowers and a hint of honey. Lovely oily texture with refreshing acidity. Nicely made, genuine and consistently managed. However, not particularly deep. (FC)

Alcohol: 12%
Drink: 2020 – 2023
White

Macabeo, 50% in stainless steel and 50% in French oak barrels.
Pretty sweet and lovely perfume on the nose! Ripe apple, citrus peel, lavender, honey and waxy character. On the palate, it is complex displaying dry flowers, toasty oak, smoke and dry nuts. Beautiful creamy texture with racy acidity. (FC)

Alcohol: 12%
Drink: 2020 – 2023
Red

60- to 80-year-old Bobal. Certified organic. Oak aged.
This is an intense wine in a modern style. Blackberries and blueberries followed by noticeable oak, toast and smoke. Superb acidity, making the wine very pleasant and easy drinking, yet also complex. I am not sure I recognise the grape in the wine, the oak dominates the Bobal expression. However, the bitterness often found on this variety is very well managed. (FC)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2020 – 2028
Red

Old-vine Bobal. Vinified in concrete eggs and large French oak casks.
Modern style. Expressive nose showing violets and well-ripened black fruits, together with noble oak, vanilla and cedar. On the palate, it has appealing acidity, firm tannins and generous intensity of flavours, displaying ripe plums in the background. Very controlled bitterness on the aftertaste. I can see great ageing potential here. (FC)

Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2020 – 2028
Red

Spontaneous fermentation in 10,000-litre stainless-steel tanks after cold soaking. Further 20 months’ ageing in 225-litre French and American oak barrels. 8,000 bottles.
Elegant sweet dark-fruit profile, well-integrated oak, sweet spices with a hint of cinnamon. A perfect combination of deep concentration and elegance, very silky tannin, with a serious structure, all expressed in a fluid way. I am impressed by the texture of this wine. This project is progressing well, presenting a wine that’s much more refined than the 2015 vintage. (FC)

Alcohol: 14.8%
Drink: 2020 – 2026
White

100% Garnacha Blanca. Very gently pressed to obtain only the first fraction of the must. It is stored in French oak barrels where the fermentation finishes. Aged for one year in the same barrels on its fine lees, with soft bâtonnage. Very gentle filtration.
Please, allow me to put the reader in the picture. This is a wine that highlights the positive attributes of evolution. Beautifully golden colour. It shows cooked apples and pear, honey, dry nuts, dry flowers, brioche, smoke and chalkiness. On the palate, it is so Mediterranean! Warm, immense and deep. I can taste and feel the creamy texture of the lees and the complexity of the oak over a mineral aftertaste of wet earth. It’s an idiosyncratic wine that for sure has its own public. Truly gastronomic. (FC)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2020 – 2025
Red

Manual harvest in 15-kg boxes. Pre-fermentation maceration in order to preserve all the aromas of the grape. Matured in concrete tanks and French oak barrels simultaneously for 4 months.
Pleasant ripe black fruit, although not especially precise. Easy to drink, hints of toast and smoke adding complexity to the palate. It is intense and savoury. A well-made everyday Ribera. (FC)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2020 – 2024
Red

The Tempranillo grapes come from two vineyards, Carrascalón and Haza, located at 900 and 1,000 m elevation respectively. The wine ages in first- and second-year barrels of French (80%) and American (20%) oak for 13 months.
It has a very intense ruby colour in line with the concentration and vigour shown on the nose: dark-fruit expression, blackberries and plums. The oak is clearly present, showing vanilla and toast notes. It has a classy touch. Sweet tannins and well-covered acidity. This wine will evolve nicely. A modern and well-made Ribera style. GV (FC)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2020 – 2030
Become a member to continue reading

Celebrating 25 years of building the world’s most trusted wine community

In honour of our anniversary, enjoy 25% off all annual and gift memberships for a limited time.

Use code HOLIDAY25 to join our community of wine experts and enthusiasts. Valid through 1 January.

Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 285,304 wine reviews & 15,800 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 285,304 wine reviews & 15,800 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 285,304 wine reviews & 15,800 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 285,304 wine reviews & 15,800 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Tasting articles

Windfall vineyard Oregon
Tasting articles The fine sparkling-wine producers of Oregon are getting organised. Above, Lytle-Barnett’s Windfall vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon (credit: Lester...
Mercouri peacock
Tasting articles More than 120 Greek wines tasted in the Peloponnese and in London. This peacock in the grounds of Mercouri estate...
hen among ripe grapes in the Helichrysum vineyard
Tasting articles The wines Brunello producers are most proud of from the 2021 vintage, assessed. See also Walter’s overview of the vintage...
Haliotide - foggy landscape
Tasting articles Wines for the festive season, pulled from our last month of tastings. Above, fog over the California vineyards of Haliotide...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Karl and Alex Fritsch in winery; photo by Julius_Hirtzberger.jpg
Wines of the week A rare Austrian variety revived and worthy of a place at the table. From €13.15, £20.10, $24.19. It was pouring...
Wine Snobbery book cover
Book reviews A scathing take on the wine industry that reminds us to keep asking questions – about wine, and about everything...
bidding during the 2025 Hospices de Beaune wine auction
Inside information A look back – and forward – at the world’s oldest wine charity auction, from a former bidder. On Sunday...
JancisRobinson.com team 15 Nov 2025 in London
Free for all Instead of my usual monthly diary, here’s a look back over the last quarter- (and half-) century. Jancis’s diary will...
Alta keg dispense
Nick on restaurants A new restaurant in one of central London’s busiest fast-food nuclei is strongly Spanish-influenced. Brave the crowds on Regent Street...
UK newspaper listing including The Wine Programme from 1983
Inside information The fourth of a new seven-part podcast series giving the definitive story of Jancis’s life and career so far. For...
Skye Gyngell
Free for all Nick pays tribute to two notable forces in British food, curtailed far too early. Skye Gyngell is pictured above. To...
Kistler Chardonnay being poured at The Morris
Free for all Recommendations of very varied wines for very varied budgets, from £11.50 to £60 a bottle. A much shorter version of...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.