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The Wine Society

Thursday 1 April 2010
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A 50-strong snippet of The Wine Society's range follows, representing mostly the classics, although there are a few curios too. My picks of the bunch were Ch Reynon Rouge, a St-Joseph from the combined minds of Jaboulet and Perrin, and Le Haut-Lieu (pictured) from Domaine Huet in the Loire. 

The notes in italics are provided by the Wine Society. 

SPARKLING ##1##

FORTIFIED

White
Herederos de Argüeso were founded in 1822 and have wonderful cellars in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, which is situated on the Atlantic coast. Cooler conditions found in Sanlúcar, as opposed to Jerez, means the flor grows thicker and more permanently in the barrels and produces a rather softer, gentler yet fuller style of flor influenced fino called manzanilla. This is fresh, tangy manzanilla from the best producer in Sanlúcar at a most attractive price.
Apple sauce, baking bread, lovely texture and smoothness with a tangy finish and charming mineral character. (RH)
Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2010
Price: £6.95 The Wine Society

WHITE
France
Bordeaux

White
This 100% sauvignon is a delicious dry white from the Dubourdieu stable, freshly scented with touches of honey and lemon. Brisk invigorating flavour and fine length on the palate.
Pungent grass aromas, biting lemon fruit on the palate, wax, melon and honey. Long length, very broad flavours. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2012
Price: £16, The Wine Society

Burgundy
White
In the Burrier family for five generations, Château de Beauregard is now run by Frédéric Burrier, who has taken this 30 hectare estate with its wonderful vineyard holdings to the top of the tree by tilling the soil, reducing yields and perfecting the choice of barrel in the cellar.
Light, baked apples, spice, dry savoury finish and bitter tones on the finish. Refreshing acidity but not terribly forthcoming. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £12.50, The Wine Society
White
Ripe and creamy Montagny from this top Chassagne grower's négociant business.
Butter, vanilla ice-cream, apples, pineapple, piquant acid, good length with a buttered popcorn finish and a touch of green vegetable right at the end. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £20, The Wine Society

Alsace
White
Delicious, richly flavoured gewurztraminer coming from one of Alsace's top vineyard sites. The Brand is a south facing slope, much of decomposed granites that heat up during the summer to the advantage of the vines.
Very pronounced violet, talcum powder, lychee and melon. Sweet on the palate, unctuous body, long and powerful with massive concentration. Unremittingly powerful. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2010
Price: £16, The Wine Society

Loire
White
Eric Nicolas has restored several very old vineyards in the Appellations of Jasnières and Coteaux du Loir, which are situated north of the Loire valley south east of the town of Château du Loir. The vineyards have been under conversion to biodynamic viticulture since 2004. The 2006 vintage was expected to be even better than the 2005, due to naturally lower yields and healthy maturity in the run up to the harvest. In the event, rain just before the harvest prevented 2006 from being the potentially great vintage that had been anticipated. Picking started on 29th September at Domaine de la Bellivière, after some quite heavy rain on 26th and 27th. Acting quickly allowed the health of the fruit to be maintained and in the end only half a hectare had to remain unpicked. Careful selection was required, with several different stages of picking through the vineyards. The 2006 has a touch of residual sugar but fresh acidity, so the style is rather along the lines of a French ,sec tendre, close to a demi-sec.
Honeycomb, apple, light body, fresh green fruit but a bit lacking in ripeness. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £16, The Wine Society
White
Up-and-coming winemaker Gilles Berlioz started making wine in 1990 from just 0.8 hectares. Today he has three hectares of vines (he sold 2.8ha in 2001 to concentrate on producing top-quality wines and to convert to biodynamic farming). Made from the local jacquère grape variety, this comes from 20-year-old vines planted in clayey soil on a steep, south-east facing hillside. Light and zesty with refreshingly crisp flavour reminiscent of the mountain air.
Light body but focused citrus and lime flavours, zingy finish. Bit of smoky character on the finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 11.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £9.95, The Wine Society
White
A wine of real finesse, fragrance, balance, charm and length, a touch of residual sugar helping to moderate the fresh acidity that is typical of the 2007 vintage. At Huet they believe 2007 is probably finer, "plus précis" than the 1996.
Closed, apples, floral nose. Broader on the palate, with a taste that expands in the mouth: spooky biodynamics or just good winemaking? Either way, it’s a very pleasurable experience with subtlety, grace but lots of core fruit too. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £19, The Wine Society
White
This wine is produced from soils that resemble those in Chablis, and these contribute to the wine's stony and mineral character, even in riper vintages like 2005 and 2006. The Kimmeridgian soil contains a high proportion of crushed sea shells that are over 150 million years old. Grower, Denis Jamain made the first Pierres Plates in 1998.
Peculiar brie cheese on the nose, with such intensity that it is offputting. The palate gives more of the same: a rancid, rotten flavour. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £9.95, The Wine Society

Germany
White
The village of Ruppertsberg has some of the best vineyard sites in the Pfalz and can produce outstanding rieslings. It is also fortunate in having a very forward-looking and innovative co-operative that has taken great pains to produce wines of real quality and at the same time exceptional value. The Society's Ruppertsberg is blended especially for The Wine Society (riesling, silvaner and gewürztraminer) and is intended to be an easy, refreshing white that can be enjoyed on its own or with food.
Banana, lime – bit of an odd fruit combination, dry finish, thick mouthfeel. Not classic, though drinkable enough. (RH)
Alcohol: 11.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £6.50, The Wine Society
White
The steep rocky Goldtröpfchen vineyard, an amphitheatre of vines in a bend of the river facing south, is indisputably one of the Mosel’s five greatest sites. Exciting peachy fruit, vibrant, elegant racy fruit with natural honeyed sweetness.
Beautifully ripe and honeyed nose with floral notes, sweet spice and lime pickle. Bold and medium-sweet on the palate, just enough acid to balance on the finish with a good length. Very good. (RH)
Alcohol: 8%
Drink: 2010 – 2015
Price: £16, The Wine Society

Italy
White
Clean, dry, fruity white from the Soave grape, made for us by Antonio Fattori.
Pear drops, grapefruit, sharp acid, bit bland and confected. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £4.95, The Wine Society
White
Poggio al Tesoro is a joint venture between the Allegrini family of Valpolicella and Leonardo Lo Cascio. The 70 hectare property is on Italy's Tyrrhenian coast in the best bit of north Bolgheri next to Sassicaia. The south west facing Le Sondraie vineyard is proving ideal for the vermentino grape.
Lovely flint and smoke nose with a good dash of citrus fruit. Dry, interesting, some bitter lemon and lemon curd notes. (RH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £12.95, The Wine Society

Hungary
White
Pronounced 'chair-seggy', this Hungarian is fresh and aromatic, somewhere between pinot gris and gewürztraminer in style, and with delightfully moderate alcohol.
Aromatic, gewurz-a-like (this is a cross of Gewurztraminer and Irsai Oliver, in fact) with an estery banana and light citrus character. (RH)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £4.95, The Wine Society

South Africa
White
The Foundry is Meerlust winemaker Chris Williams' own venture, with British (though South African based) partner, James Reid. The fruit comes from the old soils and vines of the Paardeberg, in the Swartland region, and has 10% Stellenbosch viognier for aromatic lift. The wine was fermented in barrels previously used for Meerlust's chardonnay, so there are no new oak flavours or aromas.
Toffee, cream, apple crumble, caramel. Perky acid, bit of flint character, dry and enjoyable. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £7.95, The Wine Society

Australia
White
Deliciously fruity marsanne which is gentle and lemony with just a hint of the grape's nutty flavour. Located in the Goulburn Valley in Central Victoria, Tahbilk is a winery steeped in tradition and some of its vineyards date back to its origins in the 1860s. These include marsanne vineyards, making Tahbilk the largest single holder of marsanne vines in the world with older vines than the Rhône, its other home.
Dry, aromatic and perfumed nose with an aniseed, liquorice and a white pepper tinge on the finish. Lots going on in the nose – plenty to like. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £8.95, The Wine Society

New Zealand
White
Petrol, lime, spice, honey – instant Riesling refreshment and exemplary balance. Very enjoyable and confident in style. (RH)
Alcohol: 11.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £12.95, The Wine Society
White
Dog Point make tiny quantities of this fabulously broadly flavoured, elegant and creamy chardonnay which has lovely lemony fruit and a hint of smoke from careful ageing in French oak.
Powerful, creamy oak on display: vanilla, crème caramel, spices, green apples, bright acid to finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2010 – 2012
Price: £18, The Wine Society
White
Stylish yet ripe-tasting sauvignon with pristine aroma and a zesty, long finish, made by Jane Hunter. Established in 1983 by Jane and Ernie Hunter, this premium winery near Blenheim consistently delivers one of Marlborough’s very best sauvignons year after year.
Pungent vegetal and grass aromas with a syrupy, tinned fruit tone. Lots of pure gooseberries on the palate. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £10.95, The Wine Society

Argentina
White
Buyer Toby Morrhall was smitten as soon as he tasted this beautiful wine made from 70 year old vines. The intense greengage aroma and flavour are what he looks for in semillon. But it was the lovely, unforced concentration of the palate that took his breath away. Some call it “old vine texture”. Mysteriously, nothing else seems to be able to replicate the innate intensity of flavour found in wine made from the grapes of old vines. The explanation appears to be that as a vine ages its vessels constrict like human arteries, reducing both its vegetative vigour and the size and quantity of its berries.
Very light nose, some waxy texture but not much in the middle. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £9.95, The Wine Society

Chile
White
Limarí is fast becoming the pre-eminent region for chardonnay in Chile. A break in the coastal mountain range to the northwest of the valley results in a very strong cooling influence from the 14ºC Pacific Ocean for vineyards planted about 25km from the coast. This cool climate, with rainfall of just 100mm per year, little or no frost risk and some soils containing limestone produce a mineral style of chardonnay which ages well. This crisp, refreshing chardonnay was made for us by Concha y Toro and their winemakers Marcelo Papa and Ignacio Recabarren. It was aged on its lees to develop good mid palate weight with a small portion, about 10%, fermented and matured in barrels, to contribute a little roundness without masking its bright, crystalline flavour.
Banana split, light body, fresh citrus juice, chalky texture. (RH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £5.95, The Wine Society
White
The Leyda Valley was only planted in 1998, but already one can sense its enormous potential for sauvignon blanc. Just 8 miles from the chilly waters of the Pacific Ocean, Leyda's cool climate is more maritime than Casablanca's with an even lower average temperature, less frost risk and a maximum average monthly temperature of about 25ºC. The vineyards are planted on rolling hills, with granitic soils of low fertility, which are ideal for producing small yields of concentrated grapes. We are delighted to have worked with Viña Leyda to produce this intensely aromatic sauvignon blanc, redolent of gooseberries and blackcurrant leaves, with a crisp and zesty palate.
Sweet gooseberry fruit, bitter grapefruit finish, quite a wince-worthy level of acid. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £5.95, The Wine Society
White
Owned by Concha y Toro, Maycas have superb vineyards in the cool Limarí Valley .This has been aged for more than nine months on its lees to enrich and broaden the palate whilst preserving its purity and minerality. Its elegant, fresh style stimulates rather than sates thirst and stands up to all food especially well.
Thin, fresh, sour citrus, high acid. Lacking in distinguishing features. (RH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £9.95, The Wine Society

RED
France
Bordeaux
Red
This consistent property at Cussac, between Margaux and St Julien, continues to offer excellent value for money and has deservedly been a favourite with members of The Wine Society for over 20 years. The vineyard is planted with 60% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. As ripe, fresh and charming as ever, this property is hard to beat in terms of value for money.
Cassis, leather, pepper, slightest hint of leaf, decent tannic grip. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £12.95, The Wine Society
Red
Château Reynon is situated in Béguey near Cadillac on the right bank of the Garonne. The property dates back to the 15th century when it was called Château de Béguey. Denis Dubourdieu, agronomist and oenologist, has been running the estate since 1976, and makes his wine with great care and considered oak handling. The vineyard is on a south facing slope with the vines averaging over 25 years of age.
Blackcurrant, leather, cedar, lots to enjoy here, very smooth and well-integrated tannins. GV. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £12.95, The Wine Society

Burgundy
Red
Made from a tiny crop of very small grapes (millerandé) this is ripe and powerful.
Funky, ripe nose with earthy, vegetal notes. Pure and well-defined cherry and raspberry fruit that comes through on the palate with remarkable alacrity. Dry tannins, needs some time to develop. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2024
Price: £45, The Wine Society
Red
Lovely balanced pinot, ripe yet fresh from this high flying, dedicated young vigneron in Santenay.
Ink, woodspice, embers, smoke, dry tannins, floury texture, redcurrant and rosehip. Very generous and enjoyable. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2016
Price: £20, The Wine Society

Beaujolais
Red
Sumptuous Beaujolais, Burgundian in style as befits this Fuissé based grower. This will keep well and develop over the next few years.
Cherries, fine-grained tannins, dry finish, soft and supple mouthfeel. Pure red fruit. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £12.50, The Wine Society
Red
The wines of Chiroubles almost qualify as 'mountain wines'. Perched up the mountain behind Fleurie and Morgon, as high as 1,500 feet above sea level, the gamay from Chiroubles ripens early enough thanks to its largely south-eastern exposition but produces wines that are sappy, tangy and relatively light of structure.
Violets, raspberry, pretty firm tannins and a refreshing acid. Little spicy tingle on the finish. Serious stuff. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £9.50, The Wine Society

Rhône
Red
Jean-Louis Chave set up a small 'négoce' business offering a very restricted selection of very carefully sourced wines. This is a blend taken from many well-known villages such as Rasteau, Cairanne and Vinsobres. 
Powerfully scented nose, firm tannins, ripe bramble fruit. Bit of undergrowth to add complexity with a strong menthol finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £12.50, The Wine Society
Red
Perched high above the neighbouring villages of Cairanne, Rasteau and Roaix, the Escaravailles vines produce small crops of intensely sweet fruit that no doubt account for the presence of large numbers of very greedy wild boars in the area. This 2004 is perfectly balanced and quite delicious.
Plump raspberry and blackberry fruit with a good dose of leather and fruitcake. Mint and chocolate on the finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £11.50 The Wine Society
Red
Deeply coloured, ripe tasting syrah to be drunk now with a juicy steak. This wine represents a joint venture between Nicolas Jaboulet and the Perrin family of Beaucastel.
Meat, black pepper, olives, lovely texture to the tannins, just enough grip and accessibility. Long finish. Will last. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2012 – 2022
Price: £30, The Wine Society

South of France 
Red
The Society's French Full Red is quite rightly one of the most popular wines with members. The wine comes from the sunny region of Roussillon and is a blend of very ripe grenache, carignan and a little syrah, bought from a small co-operative in the well situated valley of the Agly river. It is full flavoured, fruity and round and ideal for everyday drinking.
Over-ripe fruit and a touch of horsey farmyard character that smacks a bit of bad hygiene. Riper fruit on the palate redeems it slightly. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2012
Price: £4.95 The Wine Society
Red
Château de Pena is situated on schistous soils in the well-placed valley of the Agly in the foothills of the Pyrenees. This is the flagship wine of the excellent local Cave des Vignerons de l'Agly co-operative. Those producers wedded to making fortified wines in this area have often suffered. Small and independent, the co-op at Cases de Pène has survived due to its dedication to producing value-for-money table wines for everyday drinking. Syrah is blended with Grenache. Carignan and a little Mourvèdre.
Ripe, blackcurrant and blackberry scent, chalky tannic finish, smooth and simple. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £6.50 The Wine Society
 
Italy
Red
Aglianico is the finest southern red Italian grape, capable of ageing beautifully. Oronzo Aló is brilliant at capturing the bloom of ripe fruit while retaining the structure and distinctive character. A lovely bottle.
Black fruit, chalky tannins, black cherry, dark leather and singed meat finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £6.50, The Wine Society
Red
From a small family estate called Poderi Colla founded in 1993 by Tino and Federica Colla , brother (born 1949) and daughter( born 1965) of the legendary Beppe Colla one of Piedmonts great wine producers. The vines at 250 metres alt were planted between 1930 and 1995. Handpicked. 10/12day maceration. 8 to 12 months in French and Slavonian oak.
Dry, smooth, red cherry and spice, light tannins. Lingering spice finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £8.50, The Wine Society
Red
Manfredi are Piedmont specialists based in Dogliani and particularly noted for their Dolcetto wines. We also buy their single vineyard Bricco Rosso Dolcetto. This is is a oak-aged blend based on dolcetto but using some nebbiolo too. The bargain price simply reflects the recession which enabled Manfredi to pick up parcels cheaply to make this excellent blend.
Perfume and blackcurrant on the nose, pronounced tannins, dry, not massively complex but very convincing. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £6.50, The Wine Society
Red
This comes from 25 to 50 year-old bush-trained vines from the Sava area of Taranto. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks. After fermentation the wine was aged 6 months in French and American oak barrels. The winemaker is Maurilio Chioccia.The wine is fined with egg albumin so is not for vegans.
Potent nose, lots of stewed fruit on the palate, surprisingly light body on the palate, chalky tannins, ripe and drinkable fruit. GV. (RH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £6.50, The Wine Society

Spain
Red
From the famous La Rioja Alta bodega whose wines are known for their finesse as well as depth of flavour. We chose them because they make the very best traditional style of Rioja. Two years in barrel and then further ageing in bottle results in a complex lengthy wine with fine, delicate texture. But what marks this out is that it retains its fruit.
Very developed and expressive nose, oodles of vanilla spice, red cherry, redcurrant, long finish with a strong redcurrant and sweet spice aftertaste. (RH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2010 – 2012
Price: £12.95, The Wine Society
Red
Deeply coloured, clean and fruity red which makes for perfect everyday drinking, with or without food.
Cherry jam, green leafy notes – but not in an unripe way – smooth and supple, dry and savoury. Great for less than a fiver. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £4.75, The Wine Society
Red

Cruz de Piedra is made by Bodegas Virgen de la Sierra who have superb high altitude vineyards (750 to 1100 metres above sea level) in Calatayud, a lesser known region south-east of Rioja. The secret to the rich quality of this wine is ancient garnacha bush vines which produce fruit full of flavour and power. After fermentation, this wine is bottled early to capture the freshness and vitality of the garnacha grape. Juicy enough to drink on its own, it also works well with Mediterranean style cooking.
Farmyard, over-ripe cherries, light on the palate – more miss than hit, this one. (RH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2012
Price: £5.25, The Wine Society

Australia
Red
Heartland Wines was created by a small group of friends who share a passion for making great wine. Winemaker of the moment, Ben Glaetzer makes this delicious shiraz from fruit sourced in South Australia's Limestone Coast & Langhorne Creek.
Ripe blackberries with bacon fat, savour spice, violets and round tannin feel. Lovely range of Shiraz flavour on display, and a long finish. (RH)
Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2014
Price: £9.95, The Wine Society
Red
Wonderful shiraz from this historic producer which has developed brilliantly in bottle. Expressive and complex, this is round and long.
Cooked black fruit, dry tannins that could support some decent bottle age, concentrated but not overbearing primary fruit with spice and subtle oak flavour. (RH)
Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2020
Price: £9.95, The Wine Society

New Zealand
Red
This highly perfumed, stylish wine possesses a delightfully silky palate and shows just why Dog Point is fast becoming a leader in New Zealand's fine wine scene. The original team behind Cloudy Bay excelled with their pinot.
Pure red fruit, smoke, tangy acidity and round mouthfeel, moreish length with good potential for age. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £18.50, The Wine Society
Red
Organically grown fruit from three of Seresin Estate's Marlborough vineyards with varying soil characteristics. The fruit for this wine was picked between March 28 and April 12 then de-stemmed and cooled before a pre-fermentation soaking period. After a natural fermentation in open-top fermenters the wine was transferred to French barriques to mature over a period of eleven months.
Sweet raspberry fruit, very luscious and confected, light body, low tannins but pure and lively fruit concentration. (RH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Price: £11.95, The Wine Society

Chile
Red
2007 is Chile's best vintage for a decade for reds. It was a smaller and cooler vintage producing fine yet concentrated wines.
Ripe blackcurrant fruit, vanilla pod, cinnamon stick, long finish. Loads of concentration and definition to the flavour here – really persistent. (RH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2010 – 2012
Price: £5.75, The Wine Society
Red
The grapes for this wine are grown in the Rancagua area of the Rapel region. The must was fermented in concrete tanks using selected yeasts, and then left for a further ten days on the skins to extract more colour and concentration, and matured for a further six to eight months before bottling.
Vegetal, green bean tones and some red fruit. Somewhat crude fruit character, very light tannin, dry and short. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2011
Price: £4.75, The Wine Society
Red
The El Polilla range is produced by Emiliana for The Wine Society. Though these wines are made from organically grown grapes, we have chosen them primarily because we consider they offer very good quality at an attractive price, and their organic status is an additional point of interest. The range is called El Polilla, meaning “the moth”, for two reasons. This is the nickname of Alvaro Espinoza, Chile’s leading organic specialist, who helped develop the project with owners José and Rafael Guilisasti. Secondly it symbolises one of the tenets of the organic philosophy, which is to encourage and work with the natural flora and fauna.
Blackcurrant syrup, grainy tannins that seem a bit unbalanced with the rest of the wine, baked fruit, decent length. (RH)
Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2010 – 2012
Price: £5.75, The Wine Society
 
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