A final fling with Silvaner

Germany has been awash with celebrations of Silvaner’s 350th anniversary. To round off our coverage of the Silvaner grape, allow me to add these tasting notes taken at a tasting at Prowein wine trade fair in Düsseldorf of Silvaners – all dry – handpicked by wine writer Joel Payne, in the order they were served.  If I were asked to describe what a typical Silvaner from Franken, where all of these were grown, tasted like, I think I would nominate white currants (the white-berried version of red currants, groseilles in French), plus the overlay of any terroir strong enough to...