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Burgundy 2018 – P

Monday 30 December 2019
Sylvain Pataille

For the rest of these alphabetically grouped tasting articles, and more general articles on Burgundy 2018, see our guide. This photo of Sylvain Pataille in Marsannay was taken by Jon Wyand.

The wines are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus. You can change the order as you prefer using the menu below.

Philippe Pacalet (Beaune)

White

First vintage of this wine – froze in 2016 and had to get the vines back on their feet in 2017. Bottled.
Pure, fragrant and lemony and yet there is an attractive steeliness suggesting a backbone. Tight, mouth-watering, super-pure. (JH)

Drink: 2021 – 2028
Price: £60.28 Wine Source (London)
White

Bottled. Gently smoky citrus – very slightly and nicely reductive in a way that adds complexity rather than overwhelming the fruit. Open and inviting and still has tension. The length is particularly notable as is the balance. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Price: £80.68 Wine Source (London)
White

Bottled. Limey citrus nose with ripe fruit and also a herbal freshness. Unexpectedly ripe-fruited and rich on the palate. Tightly fresh and yet spreads across the palate. Creamy texture. Deep and fresh at the same time. Really persistent. (JH)

Drink: 2021 – 2028
Price: £81.88 Wine Source (London)
White

Bottled. Citrus and rock dust with a delicate and attractive smokiness, perhaps a little more noticeable than on the Meursault. A touch sweaty on the palate at this stage and with promise for the future. Lightly creamy in texture. Elegant and long. (JH)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Price: £86.68 Wine Source (London)
Red

Aged in older foudres.
Deep cherry red. Intense, sweet cherry fruit on the nose. Rich and really firm on the palate. Meaty in its savoury character. Firm, almost thick tannins. Chewy, deep and while it is generous in fruit it is built for the long term. GV (JH)

Drink: 2025 – 2038
Price: £44.68 Wine Source (London)
Red

100% whole bunch. Bottled. Second vintage only.
Mid cherry red. Wonderfully inviting dark-red fruit, with the perfume of Chambolle and the more savoury side of Gevrey and a light stone-dusty note that is very attractive. Firm, upright tannic structure with lovely open fruit on the mid palate. Refined, youthful and delicious if quite light on the mid palate. GV in the context of Burgundy. (JH)

Drink: 2024 – 2032
Price: £53.08 Wine Source (London)
Red

100% whole bunch. Bottled.
Mid cherry red. Darker fruited than the Chambolle and a little more savoury, not quite spicy. Firm, chewy but fine-boned tannins. Lots of pure, bright fruit without unwanted sweetness. Very good. (JH)

Drink: 2025 – 2035
Price: £68.68 Wine Source (London)
Red

100% whole bunch. Not yet racked but about to be and will be bottled in March/April, mostly 2- to 3-year old barrels.
Mid crimson. Lovely open aroma of dark-red fresh fruits. So scented and open for the appellation. Firm and attractively dry-textured on the palate. More tongue-tied on the palate than the nose predicted. Fine Pommard. Shows the 100% whole-bunch a little bit on the finish but in a good, refreshing way. (JH)

Drink: 2024 – 2032
Price: £71.08 Wine Source (London)
Red

100% whole bunch. Not yet racked but about to be and will be bottled in March/April, mostly 2- to 3-year old barrels.
Mid cherry red. First impression for the aroma is riper-fruited than the Ladoix and Gevrey but also showing a slight stemmy herbal note that pulls the wine back into balance. Tight and mouth-watering, pure and juicy but should age well even though it seems so approachable now. Really moreish. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Price: £74.68 Wine Source (London)
Red

100% whole bunch. Bottled.
Mid cherry red. Pretty red-cherry fruit and a nice touch of stone dust. Succulent, pure and lovely freshness. Excellent balance and length. Tannins are fine but definite. Dry and juicy at the same time with a light stemmy freshness on the finish. (JH)

Drink: 2023 – 2030
Price: £128.68 Wine Source (London)
Red

100% whole bunch. Not yet racked but about to be and will be bottled in March/April, mostly 2- to 3-year old barrels.
Mid cherry red. Deeply fruited, ripe cherry, and inviting on the nose and gorgeous on the palate: well structured by the tannins and the whole-bunch, tight and fresh and yet the generosity shows. Philippe Pacalet says it is time to rack this wine. Long, nicely dry finish. The fruit sings because the oak is so discreet. (JH)

Drink: 2025 – 2035
Price: £POA Wine Source (London)
Red

100% whole bunch. Not yet racked but about to be and will be bottled in March/April, mostly 2- to 3-year old barrels.
Mid to deep crimson. Stunning aroma – so fragrant and scented and still with the depth of dark-red fruit. Delicate herbal freshness of stems is so well integrated. Lively, scented and elegant. Lovely wine and seems so approachable but will surely age well. Long, mouth-watering freshness. (JH)

Drink: 2025 – 2035
Price: £266.68 Wine Source (London)

Domaine Agnès Paquet (Auxy-Duresses)

White

Really creamy on the nose, rather spicy too. Deep, chewy and rich, full in the mouth, quite a powerful Bourgogne, the spice giving freshness on the finish. (JH)

Drink: 2021 – 2023
Price: £125 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
White

Lemon fruit and something almost nutty on the nose – from the oak, I think. Good depth of fruit here to fill out the heart of the wine. Both creamy and fresh on the finish. Long and the ripeness gives a sweetness on the finish. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Price: £198 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Bottled. Lightish cherry red. Gorgeously invited sweet, ripe and fresh red fruits. Smells so pure. Lovely on the palate too, caressing tannins. Softish and not notable fresh but the fruit is so bright it seems lively and the tannins freshen the finish. (JH)

Drink: 2021 – 2024
Price: £125 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Bottled. Mid crimson. Dark-red fruit with an attractive hint of stone dust. Juicy with light, dry tannins. Light-bodied and harmonious, finishing with sour-cherry fresh flavours. Not sure it is worth the premium over the Bourgogne though it is more persistent. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2026
Price: £165 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Bottled. Riper and darker than the Bourgogne though with air there’s inviting dark-cherry fruit. More oaky, a bit spicy, firm and dry, the tannins providing the freshness. Needs more time than the Bourgogne but less charming. (JH)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Price: £198 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Mid crimson. Peppery and bright on the nose. Seems to have a gentle stemmy freshness. More obviously stemmy on the palate in the nicely dry tannins. Scented on the mid palate, the dark-red fruit framed by firm, almost chalky tannins. Refined, dry texture. Sinewy and fresh. (JH)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Price: £TBC Flint

Domaine Pauline Passot (Chiroubles)

Red

Bottled. Semi-carbonic maceration – remontage after a few days. Aged in half in tank and half in demi-muids.
The different ageing here compared with Pauline Passot’s Domaine de la Grosse Pierre wines shows in a little more spice/pepper and darker fruit. Much more savoury on the palate, rocky, dry-textured finesse. (JH)

Drink: 2023 – 2030
Price: £78 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley

Laurent Pataille (Marsannay)

White

Marsannay fruit, two parcels close together. Village appellations close to Champ Forey but more marl, which often gives a reductive character, thinks Laurent Pataille. No oak; bottled before 2019 harvest.
Buttery nose but not from the malo because there was almost no malic in 2018. Light in body but with a definite mineral character. Stony, cedary, lean and tense. Mouth-watering with just enough body to balance. A little bit severe and would be great at the table, I think. (JH)

Drink: 2020 – 2024
White

Planted 2015 in Les Echezots terroir. 20,000 vines per ha. Racked in September 2019 but fermented in barrel. 40% new oak. Warm site gives richness, especially in 2018.
Rich and toasty on the nose. Ripe, creamy citrus. Full and creamy in the mouth but balanced by a light tannic structure. Powerful, broad but fresh. Sweetness of toasty oak though not at all charry. Almost sour in its freshness on the finish. (JH)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Red

No longer allowed to use Les Echezeaux on the label. Cool sites – two little valleys with cool air and humidity and not much clay and lots of stones, giving floral wines. 60% whole bunch. Racked to tank 2 weeks ago. Just 1 g/hl SO2 at racking. Tank sample.
Sweet nose of crushed strawberries. Juicy sweetness on the palate too. Super-fresh (sample very cold because Laurent was not expecting me to taste his wines). Fine-grained and definite tannins, full of energy and it just wants to engage. Wants your attention. But there’s depth of fruit too and the fruit lasts beyond the tannins. Lovely sweetness on the mid palate. (JH)

Drink: 2021 – 2028
Red

Vines rented since 2010. Biodynamic practices have given strength to the vines. Not much clay, well drained, and some marl. Court-noué (fanleaf degeneration) means he gets a wall of flowers but terrible coulure, long bunches with lots of millerandage, so very concentrated berries. Concentrated but not tannic. 60–70% whole bunch. Tank sample.
Sweet red-cherry fruit, almost a touch of orange. Lovely fruit sweetness and silky gentle tannins. Gorgeous pure fruit. Juicy, fresh but structured with chalky texture. Long, fresh finish. Harmony between fruit sweetness and bright freshness. Deep in fruit. Delicious. Juicy, sweet and vibrant. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2027

Domaine Sylvain Pataille (Marsannay-la-Côte)

Sylvain Pataille's wines were presented to Julia this year...

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