The most pressing matter in Campania is getting married, should you believe the many billboards along the way from Naples airport to Irpinia, one of Campania’s largest wine-producing regions. Smiley, happy youngsters in white wedding gowns and classic black suits are literally plastered all over the place. The Italian divorce statistics may tell a different story, but getting married is still very much the norm here.
But I didn’t travel all the way to a cool and very rainy Irpinia last March to ponder ads for wedding attire. I was there to submerge myself in Campanian red wines. Arguably the...