German 2013s – Michael's second tranche

Cask sample. Clemens Busch has managed to assemble plenty of fruit in his Marienburg Kabinett. Crisp apple, juicy pear and firm stone fruit defy the notion of a mean vintage. A lively acidity adds a delightful bite to a Kabinett for which substance and concentration can never be in question. (MS)

Cask sample. On the nose fruit aromas are already turning the exotic corner. The palate sparkles with the zest of sweet-sour orange and a tingling acidity to produce a Spätlese of delightful freshness. The raciness of its youth can confidently be expected to make way for elegance and complexity in the coming years. (MS)

The name Mineralschiefer promises mineral slate and the flavour lives up to that promise. The dusty tangent of this estate trocken receives support from an intriguing nutty nuance and certainly makes it one of the more successful dry entry-level wines of 2013. (MS)

Maybe not quite as exotic as the 2012, but the old vines of the L still managed to dig up enough fruit to keep the old slate in check. There is a fair concentration of apple and citrus fruit, but on the finish minerality does get a look in with a fascinating smoky aftertaste. An honest acidity comes across as fresh rather than choking. In a wine world where the buzz is all about exciting young winemakers, 2013 gave an ‘old’ master like Gerhard Grans the opportunity to play the trump card of experience. (MS)

There’s a truly refreshing quality about this feinherb. Attractive gentle citrus aromas invite further exploration, and the gentle orange and grapefruit flavour is served on a surprisingly soft texture. Well rounded and with just the merest hint of flintiness. Both acidity and minerality have been well harnessed without being totally denied. Just off dry and exceptionally harmonious for all its youth. (MS)

I have said it before and I shall say it again: when it comes to Kabinett, Gerhard Grans is a master of the traditional style. Even in 2013 he has managed to assemble plenty of ripe fruit, and although the acidity may be slightly higher than usual, it only adds to the freshness of the apple and grapefruit flavour. Lovely texture too, charming Kabinett! (MS)

Very restrained on the nose at this early stage. Animating acidity and crisp green apple on the palate produce a fresh and racy style of feinherb. (MS)

Cask sample. Shy on the nose, with just hint of apple and chalk. On the palate the acidity is racy but never sharp, nuances of almond and pear peel adding interest. Call me old-fashioned, but I’m still not entirely convinced about the Piesport and trocken pairing. (MS)

The name of my first love was Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett and I think she was born in 1959. In 2013 that spicy twinkle in the glass is still there, the fresh citrus fruit, the animating acidity, and though one has even gone out with a girl called Chardonnay, she never had the slender figure and racy charm of this little number. (MS)

Cask sample. Fresh citrus fruit aromas are accompanied by a faint scent of hand lotion, which always indicates good extract to me. On the palate zesty orange and mandarin flavours are served with an edge of racy acidity. Classic Spätlese with a nice bite. (MS)

Cask sample. The fragrance partners ripe local fruit like pears and mirabelles with just a hint of the exotic. Fresh and juicy on the palate with just a dash of peel setting a fine bitter nuance. Very charming. (MS)

Cask sample. They must have been very patient and picky at the estate to assemble such clean ripe fruit. We are definitely venturing into the exotic sphere, but there is also an exquisite touch of garden herbs which lends an element of complexity to the mid palate before a marked salty minerality makes its presence felt. Overall this is still more a subtle rather than opulent style of Auslese. (MS)

Still a little lactic and tasting of apple and grape must. Its freshness cannot be denied, but apart from that there is nothing really exciting. (MS)

Despite deacidification, the Schieferkristall tastes quite sour and sharp. The fruit is very green. A throwback to the early days of Mosel trocken. (MS)

Though the fruit is still pretty green, the old vines have managed to assemble a little more substance than its sibling estate trockens. A tang of peel adds some expression. (MS)

The delicate notes of apple and citrus suggest that feinherb instead of trocken was the way to go at the Karthäuserhof in 2013. Quite refreshing and with a fair balance between body, fruit and acidity, just off dry. (MS)

Clean local fruit, gentle and fresh. The acidity is by no means shy, but benefits from a well-judged measure of residual sugar. This racy and mouthwatering style of Kabinett proves that sometimes trocken is best left well alone. (MS)

Green apple and a little citrus add a light fruit contribution to the invigorating acidity. Although a tad sweeter, this is not really an improvement on the Kabinett. (MS)