Justerini & Brooks dozen

Of all the wine merchants occupying this Friday slot comprising an examination of a dozen wines submitted for review, Justerinis least qualifies as an independent.

They are the fine-wine subsidiary (backwater?) of the mammoth international drinks conglomerate Diageo, owner of more than 200 brands including, in no particular order, Smirnoff, Guinness, Johnny Walker and Bailey’s Irish Cream. Fellow wine merchants, envious of Justerinis’ solid financial footing one assumes, would say of the company that it is there mainly to provide the directors...