Littorai at 30 years

One of California’s most thoughtful and respected winemakers recently celebrated his 30th vintage. Over the past few months, Ted Lemon has hosted retrospective tastings and conversations with select groups of customers, sommeliers and members of the press, such as one I attended earlier this month in San Francisco.

Lemon and his wife, Heidi, jointly helm Littorai Wines, a small estate on the Sonoma Coast producing single-vineyard Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and one bottling of Chenin Blanc. The wines are sold primarily through a mailing list, with...