Marcelo Papa, winemaker for Chilean behemoth Concha y Toro, has a willingness to reveal all the detail and thinking behind his winemaking approach that makes him one of wine's most enlightening personalities – as Julia discovered last year when she described the effect of early picking on their Cabernet Sauvignon. Recently I had the opportunity to discover Papa's insights into Chardonnay, and it was a feast of fact about how the flavour profile responds to variations in terroir, specifically relating to the number of sunlight hours.
To demonstrate his findings, he showed seven samples of 2016 vintage Chardonnay from...
