Ch La Grolet, Tête de Cuvée 2018 Côtes de Bourg

17.5

Full bottle 1,221 g. Certified Ecocert organic and Demeter biodynamic. The back label also says it's suitable for vegans. 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec. Very low yields of 25hl/ha. The average age of the vines is 55 years. Spontaneous fermentation, very low sulphite additions. Aged for a year in new French oak barrels. 6,600 bottles produced.
It's a long time since a bordeaux has stolen my heart. I opened the bottle idly, unconscious expectations low for a young Côtes de Bourg under £20. The alcohol on the bottle said 14% (it turned out to be 13.8%) so I was expecting heat and oak, lots of Merlot dust and bell pepper. The usual. Instead, it was like walking out the door into the garden as the sun is rising on a late spring morning and the cool, pearl-white air is exploding with bird song. An orchestra of pure-throated, swelling-with-the-joy-of-alive, swooping fruit. The purity of the fruit – succulent cassis, black raspberry, wild-tannic sloe, brambly blackcurrant, dense damson – is so striking that it took my breath away. The tannins feel like moss-covered wood, taste like moss-covered stones, move tendrillar up around the fruit. The energy of the wine (intense, purposeful but cool and meditative rather than manic) spirals in the mouth, helical, cochlear; a whorl that draws you in then out and back around. This is a remarkable wine. You could age it, probably for a long time, but it's so gorgeous right now that I'd drink it for its glowing beauty of youth. Punches way, way above its pay grade. VGV (TC)

Producer
Ch La Grolet
Cuvée
Tête de Cuvée
Appellation
Côtes de Bourg
Region
Country
Colour
Red
Alcohol
13.8%
Score
17.5
When to drink
2022
2035
Published on
29 Apr 2022
Date tasted
Reviewer
Stockist
£19.95 Vin Cognito