Eugenio Collavini, Turian Ribolla Gialla 2019 Friuli Colli Orientali

17

Full bottle 1,352 g. Vineyard called Clò Turian, planted in 1972, their oldest estate vineyard. South-west facing. ‘A cold place to plant Ribolla Gialla.’ RG, says Luigi Collavini, can easily become too ripe and lose character; 'it gets boring'. No barrel, no skin contact. They pick the grapes and leave them in a cold tanks for 10 days. This preserves aromas and acidity. Creates a natural concentration. And the juice starts to ‘bite’ the skins from the inside, explains Luigi Collavini.
There’s an elusive touch of crème brûlée on the first sniff of this wine, which comes back sporadically. Pears. Bitter citrus – citron beldi. Prickly pears. Wild fennel fronds, fennel bulb and a faint ping of green peppercorn. Luigi Collavini says saffron, and I agree. A warm-bread spiciness, and something that reminds me, just a tiny bit of warm, toasted polenta. Distinctly salty finish. There's so much complexity in this wine: a hyperbola of green ritenuto herb-and-vegetable coolness curved into a salt-informed axis that reflects, on the other side, warm golden spices and comfort and cream. (TC)

Producer
Eugenio Collavini
Cuvée
Turian
Grape variety
Appellation
Friuli Colli Orientali
Country
Colour
White
Alcohol
13%
Score
17
When to drink
2022
2027
Published on
4 May 2022
Date tasted
Reviewer