Masi, Toar Classico Superiore 2018 Valpolicella

16.5

Full bottle 1,494 g. Blend of 10% Oseleta, 10% Rondinella and 80% Corvina grown on volcanic soils. Oseleta had become almost extinct. His uncle discovered it by chance 40 years ago, and he planted it in three different plots, two in Valpolicella and one in Alto Adige, to try and discover which is the best climate to grow it in. They blend the three plots for this wine. The variety has extremely small bunches (smaller than a man's palm) and tiny berries with thick skins and big pips, throws low yields and ripens very late (mid to late October). As a result, it's difficult to grow, very tannic and has lots of astringency. Their first vintage was 1990 and they are the only producer in the region to make a 100% Oseleta. It took until 2010 for the grape to be recognised as an official Valpolicella grape. The family did a huge amount of research, engaging the help of an ampelographer, and campaigned for its recognition, providing all the research materials and documents to the consorzio prove it. Oseleta means ‘little bird’, because it's the last to be picked and all the tiny little black spots of bunches in the vineyards look like small birds. For this wine they use only fresh grapes, not dried. One year in special, traditional 'fusta Veronese' 600-litre barrels, one-third new, one-third second passage, one-third third passage.
Deep, cherry-wood gleam, sonorous. Black cherries and goji berries. Dark and grippily sensuous but also with something very earth-connected – like the fissured, dark bark of an old, old tree. Pressed sloe berries, black elderberries. A long, purposeful backbone of acidity, a brush of ink dust and char, but then back to the sweet intensity of wild-berried fruit. A wine for food. (TC)

Producer
Masi
Cuvée
Toar
Classification
Classico Superiore
Appellation
Valpolicella
Region
Country
Colour
Red
Alcohol
13%
Score
16.5
When to drink
2022
2028
Published on
4 May 2022
Date tasted
Reviewer
Stockist
£16.75The Artisan Food Company, £18.50 VINVM