Alsace – under-appreciated and overstocked

Theo Lissner

Cellars in Alsace are full of wine unwanted by French supermarkets, and a new association aims to celebrate less conventional examples.

There were some great wines in the line-up at this Vins d'Alsace press and trade tasting in London late last year, a time that provokes nostalgia for big tastings and face-to-face conversations with winemakers. As I often find in Alsace, there were all the pleasures of diversity – grape variety, sweetness level, use of oak, vintage – including the typically excellent ranges from Bott-Geyl, Meyer-Fonné, Schlumberger and Julien Schaal (see this wine of the week from 2018) and good...