Bordeaux 2004 – red Graves

These reds, almost all except for those in the Haut-Brion stable tasted blind, seemed in general to have less of a hole on the mid palate than many right bank wines, but some are little more than fruit juice (not enough ambition) and only the odd one is overworked by a surfeit of ambition. They are rarely powerful but some are very well mannered. The whites are really rather good, the best of them being of serious interest. I shall report in more detail next week but Chx Fieuzal and La Louvière  may turn out to be good value. (One...