This year’s blind tasting to kick off the London Wine Fair last month was devoted to ‘icon Chardonnays’, a theme suggested by Susie Barrie MW to the Fair’s owner Hannah Tovey and the pair who every year have drawn up the list of wines to be tasted, Sarah Abbott MW and Ronan Sayburn MS. (Sayburn, Tovey and Abbott are left to right, in the middle of the tasters above.)
This year’s list included a Bâtard-Montrachet from a...