Burgundy 2018 – G

Vincent Guillemot

For the rest of these alphabetically grouped tasting articles, and more general articles on Burgundy 2018, see our guide. Vincent Guillemot of Domaine Pierre Guillemot in Savigny is seen here.

The wines are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus. You can change the order as you prefer using the menu below.

Domaine Gagey

see Louis Jadot in Burgundy 2018 – H–K

Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard (Chassagne-Montrachet)

Domaine Jérôme Galeyrand (Gevrey/Brochon)

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand Chardonnay 2018 Bourgogne

In Vosne. Vinified without SO2, like all his whites. Crushed then vertical press. Brown juice, into barrel, no settling. Topped, no stirring, no SO2 until bottling. 60–65 mg/l total and 20–25 mg/l free. Makes the wines more direct in the mouth without SO2 until bottling but he says ‘it is not a religion’ with him. Old barrels only.
Intense lime and ripe citrus. Deep and rich in the mouth, full bodied and generous but fresh. A powerful and direct, long wine. Oily/mineral, chewy. Lightly spicy finish. (JH)

Drink
2020
2026
16.5

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté

Bought grapes this year mainly from Puligny.
Intense, deeply herbal nose. Spicy, full in the mouth, intense and intensely fresh at the same time. Depth, length and freshness. There’s power but no fat or excess weight. Terrific Aligoté with good ageing potential. (JH)

Drink
2021
2028
16.5 +

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand, Le Cran 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté

Granite soils in Bissey-sous-Cruchaud – from a friend. At a big Aligoté tasting at the BIVB, Jérôme found that Aligoté did not vary that much between Chablis and Mâcon and the biggest differences were in the soil, with Aligoté on granite particularly distinctive, which is why he wanted to make this.
Pale greeny gold. Amazing richness on the nose, deep in citrus and green fruits with herbs and spices and a creamy mealy note without being at all oaky. On the palate, mouth-watering and rich in those herby green fruits. Such depth on the palate but allied to great freshness. Impressive length, with a mineral savour at the end in the spice notes. Lots of tension. The contrast between spice and freshness more marked than in his Bouzeron. (JH)

Drink
2020
2028
17

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand 2018 Bouzeron

Aligoté. Bought grapes from Xavier Moissonet (former magistrate who met Aubert de Villaine and bought a domaine on de Villaine’s recommendation), a friend in the Aligoteurs group. Organic, certified 2019, and working towards biodynamic. Vines 60 years old. Clay limestone.
More brightness and lightness of citrus here compared with Le Cran. There’s spice at the core but less dense than in the Le Cran. Slightly sour finish. Softer and more rounded on the palate but no lack of precision or freshness. Gentle but fresh, creamy rather than spicy. Less mineral, more fruity. But with air those stony spice notes come back to a more stony minerality. Juicy and mouth-watering. (JH)

Drink
2020
2026
16.5

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand, Champs Perdrix 2018 Marsannay

Replanted 2016 and this is the first vintage. 400 bottles. Mass selection from Roulot and his own vines in Marsannay.
Lovely creamy nose with a hint of orange. Ripe fruited, generous and fresh. Quite a bit of oak spice, it seems, but only old oak. Lightly chewy texture adds length. (JH)

Drink
2020
2024
16

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand Pinot Noir 2018 Bourgogne

One year in barrel. Remontage at the start of fermentation and pigeage when the ferment has warmed up. Tank sample. To be bottled mid December 2019.
Both savoury and scented with fruit at the same time. Spice and fine tannins are entwined. Fresh but not jumping out of the glass. Gentle, supple and fresh. (JH)

Drink
2020
2024
16

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand, Vieilles Vignes 2018 Côte de Nuits-Villages

Four parcels in Brochon – the oldest planted before 1960 and the youngest in the 1980s, more clay and rich soils. ‘Fixin-like’ soils. One year in barrel. Remontage at the start of fermentation and pigeage when the ferment has warmed up. Tank sample. To be bottled mid December 2019.
Sweet red fruits on the nose, inviting, seductive yet tangy too. Quite light on the mid palate, super-smooth. with a dark-chocolate-like clean finish. Really refined and surprisingly long for such delicacy. (JH)

Drink
2020
2026
16

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand, Les Retraits Vieilles Vignes 2018 Côte de Nuits-Villages

In Comblanchien and right next to Clos de la Maréchale. Plenty of clay and deep soil. Vines planted 1925 and 1932 but having to replace some vines each year (using mass selection). 30% whole bunch. One year in barrel. Tank sample.
Pretty aroma. Even with the pretty dark and peppery floral character there’s depth and length on the palate, extremely fine-grained tannins, structured, but you almost miss the framework because the tannins are so refined. Succulent and pure, benchmark burgundy finesse. Succulent at the heart even though it is shaped by those compact tannins. (JH)

Drink
2023
2030
17

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand, La Combe du Pré 2018 Marsannay

Next to Les Echezots, coldest lieu-dit in Marsannay. Picked a week later than Gevrey. One year in barrel. Remontage at the start of fermentation and pigeage when the ferment has warmed up. Tank sample. To be bottled mid December 2019.
Fragrant with dusty raspberry fruit. Attractive stony freshness. A touch of wood on the palate (one new barrel out of seven) but it will go. Silky fine tannins, so fresh. Quite delicate and cool. (JH)

Drink
2021
2028
16.5

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand, Les Champs des Charmes 2018 Fixin

This vineyard, which does not have much clay, provides the cuttings for all his mass-selection Pinot though he is also working on a selection from Comblanchien, possibly ‘Pinto Magnien’ (also used by Rousseau and Trapet). One year in barrel. Remontage at the start of fermentation and pigeage when the ferment has warmed up.
Riper and sweeter than La Justice. Darker fruited, elegant, refined and has a smoky touch. The tannins are super-fine and a little chalky. Refinement, elegance. A real beauty with notable persistence. (JH)

Drink
2023
2030
17

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand, La Justice 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin

Lower down in a little valley (combe), stony, sandy clay-limestone. Vines aged 60 years. Plant material that seems to produce fruit with a strong aroma. Tank sample. To be bottled mid December 2019.
Prettily scented, peony not strawberry. Lithe and very, very delicate tannins, almost paper-like, open and yet long. A really delicate Gevrey. (JH)

Drink
2021
2028
16.5

Dom Jérôme Galeyrand, Billard 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin

Planted 1982 on very sandy soil. 30% whole bunch. One year in barrel. Tank sample.
Deepish cherry red. Much more peppery on the nose than Les Retraits. Fragrant and scented. Slight stemmy herbal freshness, darker on the palate, floral too but with peonies not perfumed roses. Dark and delicate. Powder-fine yet definite structure. Chalky and firm. Long and scented in a dark floral and peppery way. (JH)

Drink
2023
2030
17

Domaine Geantet-Pansiot (Gevrey-Chambertin)

Dom Geantet-Pansiot 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin

Mid smudgy crimson. Sweet and ripe and perfumed with red cherry. Chewy, thick but smooth tannins. Just on the right side of ripeness, generous and full of fruit. (JH)

Drink
2023
2028
£195 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
16

Dom Geantet-Pansiot, Vieilles Vignes 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin

Mid crimson. Ripe and sweetly spicy, dark-red fruit and what smells like oak spice. Firm, dense, chewy, opulent and finishes with sweetness of oak and fruit. Just enough freshness. (JH)

Drink
2024
2028
£250 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
16

Dom Geantet-Pansiot, En Champs 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin

Mid cherry red. Seductively ripe red fruit, open and perfumed, very inviting. Rich and full in the mouth but well balanced by the freshness here. Some oak sweetness but all in balance. (JH)

Drink
2023
2030
£295 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
16.5

Dom Geantet-Pansiot, Poissenot Premier Cru 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin

Mid crimson. Smells a little darker and riper than the En Champs and less open. Dark and almost savoury on the palate and still has freshness on the finish. Full and ripe but not overripe. Quite oaky at the moment. (JH)

Drink
2023
2030
£395 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
16.5

Dom Geantet-Pansiot, Les Baudes Premier Cru 2018 Chambolle-Musigny

Mid to deep crimson. Open and scented with bright and pure red fruits. A light herbal freshness that might be some whole bunch? This has much more finesse than the Poissenot, more delicate tannins, more freshness, more energy and is tighter in the mouth. (JH)

Drink
2024
2030
£395 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
17

Dom Geantet-Pansiot, Grand Cru 2018 Charmes-Chambertin

Bottled. Mid crimson. Rich with a hint of dried cherry revealing the vintage but it is dominated by fresh red fruits. Sweet fruited on the palate, the freshness more from the finely textured tannins than from acidity. (JH)

Drink
2025
2035
£696 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
17

Dom Geantet-Pansiot, Grand Cru 2018 Charmes-Chambertin

Mid crimson. Riper and sweeter fruited than the Baudes. Open and scented. On the palate there's a lovely cool freshness to balance the bright fruit. Remarkably open and so harmonious, the tannins fine, definite and polished. (JH)

Drink
2024
2034
£695 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis
17.5

Domaine Génot-Boulanger (Meursault)

Dom Génot-Boulanger, Les Meix Chavaux 2018 Meursault

Cask sample. Light, lightly sulphury nose. Lots of acidity but not that much flesh. Was this picked slightly too early? Or at too high a yield? Could do with a bit more juice.

Drink
2023
2029
£245 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
16

Dom Génot-Boulanger, Les Grèves Premier Cru 2018 Beaune

Cask sample. Pale crimson. Racy, energetic nose. Pure and fresh with some pretty crackling fine tannins. Far from heavy but very pretty and should satisfy those looking for a particularly fresh, precocious 2018 red burgundy.

Drink
2023
2032
£245 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
16.5

Dom Génot-Boulanger, Clos Blanc Premier Cru 2018 Pommard

Cask sample. Pale with a light nose and quite firm tannins. But freshness is the keynote. May be too light for some Pommard enthusiasts. Raspberry fruit is quite seductive though.

Drink
2026
2036
£310 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
16.5 +

Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard (Savigny-lès-Beaune)

Dom Jean-Jacques Girard, Les Belles Filles 2018 Pernand-Vergelesses

More creamy and mealy on the nose than the Bourgogne Combe d’Orange. The sulphites a little intrusive at this early stage but they should disappear soon. Lovely ripe lemon and apricot fruit underneath. Rich, fresh and long; mouth-watering finish. (JH)

Drink
2021
2027
£223 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
16.5

Dom Jean-Jacques Girard 2018 Savigny-lès-Beaune

Spiced mealy citrus with a touch of lime as well as lemon. Pure and bright on the palate, the fruit to the fore and the oak just rounding out the texture. Firm and long. (JH)

Drink
2021
2027
£233 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
16.5

Dom Jean-Jacques Girard, Sous Frétille Premier Cru 2018 Pernand-Vergelesses

The aroma here is more pear than citrus, with a hint of spice. Mealy lees texture enriches the palate but the acidity is very crisp, almost too much so but just on the right side of balance. Intense and persistent. Really long. (JH)

Drink
2021
2027
£293 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
17

Dom Jean-Jacques Girard Pinot Noir 2018 Bourgogne

Mid crimson. Super-inviting red-fruit fragrance with a slight stemmy freshness (though there may not be any whole bunch). Juicy, lively, simple but delicious with the fruit highlighted. (JH)

Drink
2020
2024
£143 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
16

Dom Jean-Jacques Girard Pinot Noir 2018 Bourgogne

Lovely vibrant and sappy fruit on the nose, cherry fruit and delicious. Soft and fleshy in style and will give lots of pleasure, tannins are soft already and resolved – an early drinker. (AC)

Drink
2020
2025
£143 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
16

Dom Jean-Jacques Girard, Vieilles Vignes 2018 Volnay

Showing great purity of fruit on the nose, deep fruit and with an iron touch and minerality. The tannins are wonderfully smooth and silky and the fruit is generous and rich. Purists may want more acidity, but this is really fun to drink. (AC)

Drink
2021
2026
£293 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
16.5 +

Dom Jean-Jacques Girard, Vieilles Vignes 2018 Pommard

Blend of red and dark fruits on the nose, the palate is firm and with textured tannins. Again the fruit is sweet and generous and has a lovely ferrous finish. (AC)

Drink
2021
2028
£343 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
16.5 +
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