Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Burgundy 2024 – H–J WIP

Thursday 15 January 2026 • 10 min read

The eighth of 13 work-in-progress tasting articles. See this guide to our coverage of the 2024 burgundy vintage.

Mark Haisma (Gilly-lès-Citeaux)

White

Own vines. Chardonnay. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Reasonably ample nose with lots of apple-juice character. Light but not unattractive bitterness reminiscent of lemon cough sweets. Some structure. By no means fat! Tastes like a cross between a stereotypical Mâcon Blanc and a white from the Côte Chalonnaise. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2030
Price: £22
White

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Piercing. Cleansing aroma with just a little grace note of pear juice. Respectable even if much more like the Aligotés of old than more recent vintage examples. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2029
Price: £19
White

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Transparent, filigree fruit that’s obviously from a high site. Pure and well balanced with sufficient fruit. A little chalky-textured on the end. But it’s a complete wine that should please those looking for intense refreshment rather than flattery. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2031
Price: £32.50
White

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Rather conventional, if a little skinnier than the average Chassagne from an average vintage. Good drive if not much flesh. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2034
Price: £49.50
White

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Definitely broader on the nose than the Chassagne from the same stable with a little glamour. But it certainly isn’t short of acidity. Not sure it would deliver as much pleasure as the price would rightly justify. Though it does have some volume on the mid palate. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2034
Price: £48.50
White

Négociant bottling. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Light but quite refined nose. Sleek and a true Pernand though not a barrel of laughs. Just a little spindly. But it has structure, correct fruit, and will probably age pretty well. (JR)

Drink: 2029 – 2036
Price: £44.50
Red

70% Pinot Noir, 30% Gamay. Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Mid crimson. Rather raw and even a little bitter. Bracing! Almost iron filings on the end. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2028
Price: £18
Red

Gamay. Own vines. First year, young vines, all destemmed. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Deep crimson. Very fruity attack and pure in heart. Just the fruit, the whole fruit etc. Still a little severe on the end but it’s promising and recognisably Gamay. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2031
Price: £21.50
Red

Own vines. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Shaded mid garnet. Pretty sharp acidity but an attractive savoury Pinot Noir nose. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2030
Price: £21.50
Red

Négociant bottling. High elevation, west facing. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Shaded garnet. Fresh nose and pretty tart. Grainy texture. Bitter note on the end. (JR)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2028 – 2032
Price: £28.50
Red

Négociant bottling. High and north-east facing. Need to wait to pick so this is generally half a degree higher alcohol than the rest. Tank sample.
Light but gentle nose. Some round, supple fruit on palate entry even if it’s still a little pinched on the – quite long – end. (JR)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2029 – 2035
Price: £37.50
Red

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Shaded ruby. Quite a rich nose. But a little stolid. Definitely like a Pommard stereotype with the chew and, one hopes, potential. Though a tad dry on the end for now. Wait? (JR)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2030 – 2037
Price: £58
Red

Négociant bottling but all Haisma’s domaine fruit is in here, too, because there was a total of just 5 (cf 20) barrels. Tank sample.
Bright garnet. Light nose. And there’s a whisper of Gevrey’s density here but only a whisper! Again, a little bitter on the drying end. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2034
Price: £43.50
Red

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Some allure on the perfumed nose. Fruit fills the palate. Good energy and recognisable Morey character. Lots of drive and a hint of spearmint! Promising stuff. (JR)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2028 – 2036
Price: £70
Red

Own vines. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Intense crimson. Rich spread of more than one aroma at last on the nose! Chestnuts and just a hint of oak. For the moment a little severe on the end but it has stuffing. (JR)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2029 – 2036
Price: £133

Domaine des Hâtes and Maison des Hâtes (Chablis)

White

Fresh stony citrus. Light-bodied with an attractive grip in the chalky texture, adding length. Light but balanced. (JH)

 

Drink: 2027 – 2029
Price: £TBC per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
White

A little more depth here than in the straight Chablis. Chalky citrus purity. Chalky, dry and crisp. Mouth-watering with decent length. Subtle first impression but builds in the mouth. (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2034
Price: £TBC per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
White

More immediate fruit than on the Beauroy. Pure, bright herby citrus with a strong mineral quality. Smells both chalky and creamy-leesy. Lovely creamy texture – just right for the depth of fruit. Sustained freshness, tight and long. (JH)

Drink: 2028 – 2034
Price: £TBC per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
White

More herbs and crushed stones here than in the Butteaux Premier Cru. Underlying lime-citrus with just a hint of white blossom. Tightly wound, beautifully fresh with a persistent chalky presence leading to a long finish. (JH)

Drink: 2028 – 2036
Price: £TBC per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman

Les Hauts de Milly (Milly)

White

Fresh and simple. Not much depth for the money but clean enough. Quite tight. (JR)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2026 – 2028
Price: £23.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines

Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini (Gevrey-Chambertin)

Red

Cask sample. Soft, easy, pleasurable drinking. Has a touch of spice on the edge which compliments the richness and ripe dark-berry fruit. Plush, juicy and with good purity. Not the cheapest Bourgogne Pinot Noir but one that has lots of upside. (AWH)

Drink: 2026 – 2029
Price: £30 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
Red

Cask sample. Beautifully crafted but definitely not a bargain Gevrey-Chambertin. Lots of spice, love the ripeness of fruit here. All is very understated and refined. No hard edges. But the price seems very toppy. (AWH)

Drink: 2026 – 2032
Price: £62 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
Red

Tank sample. Juicy, lively, plenty of freshness and upfront appeal. Not the most complex, but give this time and this will gain weight and intrigue. Savoury edge, floral and leafy notes. Underneath there is purity of fruit. Concentration comes from the older vines, adding extra finesse. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2034
Price: £320 per case of 6 ib Bancroft Wines
Red

Cask sample. A premier cru at a grand cru price! Not what consumers really want. But there is no doubting that this is a very fine Côte de Nuits Pinot Noir. Lovely balance on the nose, not too heavy, not too extracted. Lots of finesse on show. Love the sweetness of red cherry and raspberry on the palate. Subtle oak. Great acidity and fine tannins complete the package. Love the wine but not convinced by the price. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2035
Price: £119 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
Red

Tank sample. A little less flesh and concentration compared with the Gevrey-Chambertin Champonnets, but there is a great deal of refinement and focus here. Fine tannins, subtle oak, persistence on the finish. Refined Morey 1er Cru which will age super-gracefully. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2036
Price: £545 per case of 6 ib Bancroft Wines
Red

Tank sample. Deep, brooding, mysterious. Lots to come. Oak is very evident on the nose/palate – needs time. Firm tannins, but great purity and drive on the palate. Dark berry/cherry fruit. Violet notes. An expensive premier cru but one that has many characteristics often seen in the grand crus. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2038
Price: £600 per case of 6 ib Bancroft Wines
Red

Cask sample. Nutty, chewy, has a savoury edge. Needs several years in bottle to blossom. Tannins have plenty of bite – I’d leave this for at least four years before broaching. I am sure it will be a great Clos St-Denis but do give it time. (AWH)

Drink: 2029 – 2042
Price: £280 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Domaine Huguenot (Marsannay-la-Côte)

Red

Certified organic. Tank sample, due to be bottled in a week or so.
Lightish crimson. Light red-cherry aroma. Juicy, fine-boned. Straightforward but a little dry on the finish. (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2030
Price: £145 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Red

Certified organic. Tank sample, due to be bottled in a week or so.
Lightish crimson. Fragrant with dark-red fruit. Firm, chewy though just balanced in this difficult vintage. (JH)

Drink: 2028 – 2032
Price: £175 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Red

Tank sample, due to be bottled in a week or so.
Light crimson. Light-bodied, scented with dark-red fruit but a bit on the lean side. (JH)

Drink: 2028 – 2032
Price: £230 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman

Héritiers Louis Jadot

see under Jadot

Château des Jacques (Moulin-à-Vent)

see under Jadot

P & M Jacqueson (Rully)

White

Stony-chalky citrus with a hint of white blossom. Intense, pure and tightly wound with a long, mouth-watering finish. (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2032
Price: £165 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Red

Light crimson. Zesty red fruits. Juicy, silky and mouth-watering with substance to give persistence. Smooth and bright, more savoury than the Rully La Pucelle and nicely dry on the finish. (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2031
Price: £125 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Red

Light to mid crimson. More fragrant than the Rully Cloux, still red-fruited. Raspberry-bright. Tannins are a little firmer, and there’s more body here; less approachable overall. Lightly chewy and sweet-fruited finish. (JH)

Drink: 2028 – 2032
Price: £150 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman

Louis Jadot (Beaune)

including their properties  Domaine J A Ferret, Famille Gagey, Héritiers Louis Jadot, Château des Jacques, Domaine Louis Jadot, Duc de Magenta, Domaine Prieur-Brunet

Matthew writes  Louis Jadot’s maître de cave Frédéric Barnier...

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