ブルゴーニュ2024 – H–J 作業中

Own vines. Chardonnay. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Reasonably ample nose with lots of apple-juice character. Light but not unattractive bitterness reminiscent of lemon cough sweets. Some structure. By no means fat! Tastes like a cross between a stereotypical Mâcon Blanc and a white from the Côte Chalonnaise. (JR)

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Piercing. Cleansing aroma with just a little grace note of pear juice. Respectable even if much more like the Aligotés of old than more recent vintage examples. (JR)

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Transparent, filigree fruit that’s obviously from a high site. Pure and well balanced with sufficient fruit. A little chalky-textured on the end. But it’s a complete wine that should please those looking for intense refreshment rather than flattery. (JR)

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Rather conventional, if a little skinnier than the average Chassagne from an average vintage. Good drive if not much flesh. (JR)

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Definitely broader on the nose than the Chassagne from the same stable with a little glamour. But it certainly isn’t short of acidity. Not sure it would deliver as much pleasure as the price would rightly justify. Though it does have some volume on the mid palate. (JR)

Négociant bottling. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Light but quite refined nose. Sleek and a true Pernand though not a barrel of laughs. Just a little spindly. But it has structure, correct fruit, and will probably age pretty well. (JR)

70% Pinot Noir, 30% Gamay. Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Mid crimson. Rather raw and even a little bitter. Bracing! Almost iron filings on the end. (JR)

Gamay. Own vines. First year, young vines, all destemmed. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Deep crimson. Very fruity attack and pure in heart. Just the fruit, the whole fruit etc. Still a little severe on the end but it’s promising and recognisably Gamay. (JR)

Own vines. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Shaded mid garnet. Pretty sharp acidity but an attractive savoury Pinot Noir nose. (JR)

Négociant bottling. High elevation, west facing. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Shaded garnet. Fresh nose and pretty tart. Grainy texture. Bitter note on the end. (JR)

Négociant bottling. High and north-east facing. Need to wait to pick so this is generally half a degree higher alcohol than the rest. Tank sample.
Light but gentle nose. Some round, supple fruit on palate entry even if it’s still a little pinched on the – quite long – end. (JR)

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Shaded ruby. Quite a rich nose. But a little stolid. Definitely like a Pommard stereotype with the chew and, one hopes, potential. Though a tad dry on the end for now. Wait? (JR)

Négociant bottling but all Haisma’s domaine fruit is in here, too, because there was a total of just 5 (cf 20) barrels. Tank sample.
Bright garnet. Light nose. And there’s a whisper of Gevrey’s density here but only a whisper! Again, a little bitter on the drying end. (JR)

Négociant bottling. Tank sample.
Some allure on the perfumed nose. Fruit fills the palate. Good energy and recognisable Morey character. Lots of drive and a hint of spearmint! Promising stuff. (JR)

Own vines. Certified organic. Tank sample.
Intense crimson. Rich spread of more than one aroma at last on the nose! Chestnuts and just a hint of oak. For the moment a little severe on the end but it has stuffing. (JR)

Fresh stony citrus. Light-bodied with an attractive grip in the chalky texture, adding length. Light but balanced. (JH)

A little more depth here than in the straight Chablis. Chalky citrus purity. Chalky, dry and crisp. Mouth-watering with decent length. Subtle first impression but builds in the mouth. (JH)

More immediate fruit than on the Beauroy. Pure, bright herby citrus with a strong mineral quality. Smells both chalky and creamy-leesy. Lovely creamy texture – just right for the depth of fruit. Sustained freshness, tight and long. (JH)

More herbs and crushed stones here than in the Butteaux Premier Cru. Underlying lime-citrus with just a hint of white blossom. Tightly wound, beautifully fresh with a persistent chalky presence leading to a long finish. (JH)

Fresh and simple. Not much depth for the money but clean enough. Quite tight. (JR)

Cask sample. Soft, easy, pleasurable drinking. Has a touch of spice on the edge which compliments the richness and ripe dark-berry fruit. Plush, juicy and with good purity. Not the cheapest Bourgogne Pinot Noir but one that has lots of upside. (AWH)

Cask sample. Beautifully crafted but definitely not a bargain Gevrey-Chambertin. Lots of spice, love the ripeness of fruit here. All is very understated and refined. No hard edges. But the price seems very toppy. (AWH)

Tank sample. Juicy, lively, plenty of freshness and upfront appeal. Not the most complex, but give this time and this will gain weight and intrigue. Savoury edge, floral and leafy notes. Underneath there is purity of fruit. Concentration comes from the older vines, adding extra finesse. (AWH)

Cask sample. A premier cru at a grand cru price! Not what consumers really want. But there is no doubting that this is a very fine Côte de Nuits Pinot Noir. Lovely balance on the nose, not too heavy, not too extracted. Lots of finesse on show. Love the sweetness of red cherry and raspberry on the palate. Subtle oak. Great acidity and fine tannins complete the package. Love the wine but not convinced by the price. (AWH)

Tank sample. A little less flesh and concentration compared with the Gevrey-Chambertin Champonnet, but there is a great deal of refinement and focus here. Fine tannins, subtle oak, persistence on the finish. Refined Morey premier cru which will age super-gracefully. (AWH)

Tank sample. Deep, brooding, mysterious. Lots to come. Oak is very evident on the nose/palate – needs time. Firm tannins, but great purity and drive on the palate. Dark-berry/cherry fruit. Violet notes. An expensive premier cru but one that has many characteristics often seen in the grands crus. (AWH)

Cask sample. Nutty, chewy, has a savoury edge. Needs several years in bottle to blossom. Tannins have plenty of bite – I’d leave this for at least four years before broaching. I am sure it will be a great Clos St-Denis but do give it time. (AWH)