Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Burgundy 2024 – M–N WIP

Monday 19 January 2026 • 5 min read

The 10th of 13 work-in-progress tasting articles. For more on this vintage, see Burgundy 2024 – guide to our coverage

Duc de Magenta

see under Jadot in Burgundy 2024 – H–J

Domaine Henri Magnien (Gevrey-Chambertin)

Red

A blend of all 15 of their plots.
Quite rich and satisfying. Real core of fruit to this. Needs time though. (JR)

Drink: 2029 – 2037
Price: £285 per case of 6 ib Flint Wines
Red

So named because in this small vintage they had to put all of their 15 parcels of Gevrey into one wine – usually they constitute three different cuvées (eg there is usually a separate Vieilles Vignes).
Light to mid cherry red. Lightly peppery and stemmy edge to the dark fruit. Nicely scented without being Beaune-like pretty. There’s depth and length here. Very fine texture and the blend has definitely benefited from the parts, including the contribution of the old vines. Finely textured, dry but not drying tannins. Elegant and persistent. GV (JH)

Drink: 2029 – 2038
Price: £264 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Mid to light crimson. Prettily scented with fresh red fruit. Succulent, light-bodied and harmonious in the vintage style. Underlying fruit depth fills the core and provides a long, nicely dry finish. (JH)

Drink: 2029 – 2038
Price: £295 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Dark ruby. Sweet start and then pretty chewy and firm. (JR)

Drink: 2029 – 2036
Price: £528 per case of 6 ib Flint Wines
Red

Mid to light crimson. Sweeter-fruited aroma than in the Gevrey XV. Juicy freshness and chalky-smooth texture, already harmonious but the Gevrey XV is better value in 2024. Needs time to blossom. (JH)

Drink: 2029 – 2038
Price: £408 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Lightish cherry red. Pretty dark-red fruit, open and scented. Delicate but not lean. Lovely tannic finesse so that the fruit and the structure are in harmony. Long, long finish. (JH)

Drink: 2029 – 2040
Price: £462 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Not yet open but already inviting. Smells of juicy dark-red fruit with a hint of fruit sweetness. More sober and elegant on the palate. Such fine tannins. Not showy or powerful but long and refined. A bit tongue-tied at the moment. Not bad value in the Burgundy context. (JH)

Drink: 2029 – 2040
Price: £260 per case of 3 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Theirs is the only Ruchottes that includes both Ruchottes du Bas and Ruchottes du Dessus. Thanks to Charles Magnien’s grandfather, they have 8 ares of each.
Fragrant but subtle raspberry and wild-strawberry aroma without obvious sweetness. Extremely subtle yet persistent. Succulent, fine-boned and long. (JH)

Drink: 2030 – 2042
Price: £565 per case of 3 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Domaine Michel Magnien (Morey-St-Denis)

Red

Cask sample. Pungent, in-your-face style of Marsannay. Loads of dark-red/black fruits. Certainly not a shrinking violet at the moment. Plenty to chew on. Lacks a bit of subtlety for me. Chunky tannins. Slightly sour on the finish. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2032
Price: £39 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
Red

Cask sample. Shows a bit more underlying sweetness of fruit than the Marsannay. Plenty of weight and heft here. Long on the finish. I suspect that once in bottle (and aged for at least a couple of years) this is going to be a very fine village Morey. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2034
Price: £49 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
Red

Chaffots lies just above Clos St-Denis. Free-draining soils. Cask sample.
Deep, profound, has all the depth and concentration one could want. Clearly great potential here. Plenty of chew on the tannins but all the components are in the right place. Will be a great example in 3–4 years but will need time. (AWH)

Drink: 2028 – 2037
Price: £72 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
Red

Cask sample. Quite a delicate flower (tasted after the Morey Chaffots). But elegance is the key here. Refined, subtle, understated. Drink in the medium term. Crisp, crunchy dark-berry fruits. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2034
Price: £108 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
Red

Cask sample. Massive colour in the glass. Deep, profound nose. Rich and complex on the palate. Concentrated and long. Opulent, dark-cherry/berry fruits, complemented by a powerful oak structure. Needs plenty of time to meld but has great potential. (AWH)

Drink: 2029 – 2038
Price: £190 Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Domaine Sébastien Magnien (Meursault)

White

Tank sample. Easy drinking, ready soon. Attractive citrus fruit on the palate and nose. Crisp, clean and bright, zesty. Enough concentration. Enjoy over the next 2–3 years. Pebbly finish. (AWH)

Drink: 2026 – 2028
Price: £93 per case of 6 ib Bancroft Wines
White

Tank sample. Much more wood on show – at the moment, a little unbalanced. Typical St-Romain notes of confit lime/orange zest. Brisk acidity. Needs at least 12 months. This should be an attractive example in the medium term. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2031
Price: £152 per case of 6 ib Bancroft Wines
White

Tank sample. Attractive, weighty, chewy Meursault. Appealing spice and zestiness on the finish. Just a bit bitter at the moment; this will be cleaned up once in bottle. Typical Meursault with good potential for the next 3–5 years. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2032
Price: £270 per case of 6 ib Bancroft Wines
Red

Tank sample. Rather reserved but has a good savoury edge with persistent acidity and all the concentration you would want at this price level. Not hugely complex but there is still more to come once in bottle and aged for 12 months. Seems pretty fair value for what you are paying for. GV (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2030
Price: £90 per case of 6 ib Bancroft Wines
Red

Tank sample. A chunky style with an abundance of dark-berry/cherry fruit on the palate, combined with notable oak. Good purity of fruit though and plenty of ripeness on the palate. Good ‘chew’. Needs 12–18 months in bottle but certainly has promise. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2032
Price: £92 per case of 6 ib Bancroft Wines
Red

Tank sample. Oak dominates the nose and palate but there is no mistaking the weight and concentration underneath. This has very good potential. Weighty, floral, depth of fruit. All the components are there– should be delicious after 24 months in bottle. (AWH)

Drink: 2027 – 2033
Price: £180 per case of 6 ib Bancroft Wines

Domaine Stéphane Magnien (Morey-St-Denis)

Red

Two calcareous parcels. Bottled in December after barrel ageing.
Lightish cherry red. A very Morey mix of spice and scent. Sweet-fruited, firm, smooth tannins. Seems a little riper and more rounded than some, perhaps exposed to more oxygen? (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2032
Price: £195 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Red

Two parcels more than 55 years old and predominantly clay. Bottled in December after barrel ageing (10–15% new oak).
Fresher (fresher-smelling sample, perhaps) and deeper than the Grains Fins. A little more savoury and the tannins are firmer. Harmonious and the tannins may be firm but they are smoothed. Decent length. (JH)

Drink: 2028 – 2034
Price: £210 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Red

Just below Clos de la Roche. Bottled in December after barrel ageing. 20–25% new oak.
Scented with dark-red fruit and a touch of oak sweetness. Firm and chewy on the palate. Definitely needs time for the tannins to become more supple. But there’s enough fruit to keep pace with them. (JH)

Drink: 2029 – 2035
Price: £370 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
Red

Brownish ruby. Sweet start. Very flattering indeed but very evolved. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2032
Price: £378 per case of 6 ib Flint Wines
Red

Bottled December after barrel ageing. 20–30% whole bunch and 30–35% new oak.
Mid crimson. Smells a little riper/sweeter than the Morey Faconnières. More oak in evidence and the whole bunch has increased the presence of the tannins. Keep away for now! Promising. (JH)

Drink: 2031 – 2040
Price: £815 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman

Domaine Thierry et Pascale Matrot (Meursaul)

White

High toned. Satisfying on the palate – could easily be taken for a Meursault. Still a little chewy and no hurry to drink. GV (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2030
Price: £105 per case of 6 ib Flint Wines
White

25% new oak (they use all the new oak on this wine). Bottled in August 2025.
Delicate stony citrus. More intensity than I expected on the palate. Piercing and pure, the oak so well integrated that you barely notice it. GV (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2026 – 2029
Price: £115 per case of 6 ib Corney & Barrow
White

Tank sample but bottled last week.
Savoury and just a little bit brutal. Perhaps it just needs time? (JR)

Drink: 2029 – 2036
Price: £276 per case of 6 ib Flint Wines
White

Just bottled.
Smells a little more creamy than the Bourgogne Chardonnay though there is no new oak here. But also a hint of smoky reduction. Tight, crisp and persistent. Impressive length and finesse at this price (in a burgundy context). (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2027 – 2030
Price: £280 per case of 6 ib Corney & Barrow
White

Tank sample. As in the Meursault village wine, there is a touch of smoky reduction, not quite struck match but it adds another layer to the wine. Excellent depth of citrus fruit with the stony-mineral side more noticeable on the finish. Very good premier cru. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2027 – 2032
Price: £480 per case of 6 ib Corney & Barrow
Red

Very light colour. Delicate red-fruit aroma. Light-bodied, sweet-sour red fruit and super-fresh. A thirst-quencher with unexpected persistence, building to greater weight in the mouth on second approach. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2027 – 2032
Price: £280 per case of 6 ib Corney & Barrow

Domaine Méo-Camuzet and Méo-Camuzet Frères et Soeurs (Vosne-Romanée)

Red

Cask/tank sample. Volnay scent of red fruit and subtle floral sweetness. Light-bodied, the tannins appropriately slight. Unexpected persistence. (JH)

Drink: 2028 – 2032
Price: £390 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
Red

Cask sample. Mid crimson. Hint of rhubarb on the nose – so not the freshest fruit. Bone-dry finish. (JR)

Drink: 2030 – 2040
Price: £405 per case of 3 ib Goedhuis Waddesdon
Red

Cask sample. Solid rendition. But a tad raw. Chewy finish. (JR)

Drink: 2032 – 2042
Price: £750 per case of 3 ib Goedhuis Waddesdon

Domaine Merlin (La Roche-Vineuse)

White

A warm site, hence the name, sloping and just below La Roche. Cask/tank sample.
Subtle but present oak – more creamy than spicy. Deep in pure fruit and with an attractive firmness in the texture. Real presence for a well-priced wine. (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2030
Price: £120 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
White

Cask/tank sample. Creamy, pure lemon fruit, very slightly leesy/creamy. More obvious mealy roundness on the palate but shot through with freshness. Firm, lightly chewy on the finish. GV (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2031
Price: £135 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
White

Cask/tank sample. Pure, bright citrus freshness. Really mouth-watering and yet rounded out in the texture to bring balance. Harmonious and full of energy to a long finish. (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2032
Price: £180 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd

Château de Meursault (Meursault)

White

Sweet and simple on the nose. Short. But flattering. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2032
Price: £165 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
White

Cask/tank sample. More guts and grip than the Clos du Château. Real grip and structure. Long. Quite exciting! (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2034
Price: £250 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
White

Tank sample. Full and rich but without focus. Hard work! (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2036
Price: £330 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis Waddesdon
White

Cask/tank sample. Light and floral on the nose. A little savoury and toasty on the end. Smooth texture with an interesting spine. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2036
Price: £355 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
White

Tank sample. Glamorous and showy. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2036
Price: £495 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis Waddesdon
White

Cask/tank sample. Rich and grainy with some alcohol in evidence. But a little low key overall for the price. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2036
Price: £615 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
Red

Tank sample. Lots of raw fruit and impact – pretty heavy extraction? – but far from subtle. (JR)

Drink: 2029 – 2037
Price: £340 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis Waddesdon
Red

Tank sample. Some oak still in evidence. A bit galumphing. Chewy, raw finish. (JR)

Drink: 2030 – 2049
Price: £875 per case of 6 ib Goedhuis Waddesdon

Domaine Jean-Marc Millot (Nuits-St-Georges)

Red

Cask sample. Quite a deep, dark ruby colour. Dry end and not as much fruit as some other renditions. Chewy end. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2034
Price: £168 per case of 6 ib Flint Wines

Domaine de la Monette (Mercurey)

White

Sharply etched white that is pretty good! VGV (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2031
Price: £85 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
White

Some savour and a whisper of Côte d’Or structure. Good stuff! (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2033
Price: £125 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks

Domaine de Montille (Volnay)

White

Cask/tank sample. Creamy, leesy richness suggesting oak but not overdone. Crisp acidity and just in balance. Straightforward, harmonious, moderate depth. (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2031
Price: £345 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
White

Cask/tank sample. Correct and quite rich with lots to enjoy but a little lacking savoury character. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2033
Price: £355 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
White

Tank sample. Lifted nose and quite a steely texture. Introvert and not immediately obviously a Meursault. But irreproachable. Tingles on the finish. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2034
Price: £690 per case of 12 ib Flint Wines
White

Cask/tank sample. Lightly spiced and stony grapefruit impression. Creamy and rounded in the mouth, fresh enough but could do with a little more intensity on the mid palate. (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2031
Price: £348 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
White

Tank sample. Light nose. Transparent and rather delicate fruit. Would need careful food matching. Bone-dry finish. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2033
Price: £516 per case of 12 ib Flint Wines
White

Cask/tank sample. Next to the forest so a cool site – and it does have a green-fruited herbal freshness. Very crisp, bright and zesty with a nicely rounded finish. (JH)

Drink: 2027 – 2030
Price: £270 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
White

Tank sample. Light and lemony. Very precise but definitely the new austere style of Meursault rather than betraying any richness. Brisk! (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2034
Price: £472.50 per case of 6 ib Flint Wines
White

Cask/tank sample. Exciting combo of richness and racy energy. Worth looking out for. Very cool. But a little bit pinched. (JR)

Drink: 2029 – 2037
Price: £830 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
Red

Cask/tank sample. Lightish crimson. Distinctive aroma that suggests a touch of reduction (in a good way) in its peppery edge, perhaps there’s a percentage of whole bunch? Fragrant with red fruits. Juicy, firmly textured and with the fruit to fill the core. Svelte rather than thin. Deliciously fresh and dry on the finish. Needs time. (JH)

Drink: 2029 – 2036
Price: £360 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
Red

Cask sample. Pale greyish garnet. Light nose. Very light fruit. Either delicate or skinny depending on your mood! Tightens up on the end. (JR)

Drink: 2029 – 2034
Price: £645 per case of 6 ib Flint Wines
Red

Cask/tank sample. Mid crimson, darker than most 2024 reds. Dark-fruited and peppery, open and inviting with a touch of spice. Firm texture and lightly oaky, the oak enhancing the tannins, I think. Elegant and long within the lightness of the vintage. (JH)

Drink: 2029 – 2036
Price: £720 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd

Domaine Gilles Morat (Vergisson)

White

Lots of stoniness on the nose. Real bite and refreshment. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2031
Price: £96 per case of 6 ib Robert Rolls
White

Pretty nose and quite precise fruit. But just a little dull. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2030
Price: £228 per case of 12 ib Flint Wines
White

Not sure about the oaky note. There’s a little saline note but not quite enough core at present. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2033
Price: £132 per case of 6 ib Robert Rolls
White

Intense and savoury and with real potential and structure. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2035
Price: £141 per case of 6 ib Robert Rolls
White

Rich nose and chiselled palate. Worth cellaring. Notable acidity at the moment. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2032
Price: £192 per case of 6 ib Flint Wines

Domaine Alex Moreau

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