So writes the lyrical Meera Sodha, born and brought up in Lincolnshire, north England, the daughter of Indian parents who’d fled for their lives from Uganda...
Cab Franc and cavolo
Tuesday 8 February 2022
‘But black kale, or cavolo nero, is a different beast. The leaves look like the frosted plumes of an exotic bird and melt down into a silky, unctuous, bittersweet pool. It works really well tempered with a nutty, chewy grain such as spelt and just a whisper of white wine, chilli and fennel. After all these years, I am still a dawdler on kale, but for cavolo nero, I’d run several country miles.’
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