The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting | Wine writing competition

Gilles Robin, Papillon 2010 Crozes-Hermitage

• 1 min read
Image

From €12, £12.95, $23.99, NZ$35

Find this wine 

You know how you feel a trend coming on?  I find more and more people in love with the fine-boned Syrahs of the northern Rhône. There were lots of very good examples made in 2009 (see this guide to my detailed coverage of 2009 Rhône wines) but the 2010 vintage is looking even more promising. I shall be tasting hundreds of 2010s from and in both northern and southern Rhône next month and look forward to sharing my impressions with you.

There could hardly be a more appetising introduction to 2010 northern Rhône red than this early drinking cuvée from the energetic Gilles Robin of Mercurol. It sees no oak and is bottled in May, after light micro-oxygenation to avoid the reduction to which Syrah is prone, according to John Livingstone-Learmonth in his superb The Wines of the Northern Rhône, and the idea is to provide us with pure pleasure. I would love to drink this any time over the next two years, but can’t see much point in ageing it because it is already so pure and flattering with admirably polished tannins and lovely sappy fruit.  This is obviously a particularly ripe vintage so is wonderfully accessible already. At 13% alcohol, it is slightly stronger than some northern Rhône wines but hardly excessive.

Gilles Robin, born 1972, is one of the younger vignerons who is breathing new life into this exciting and distinctive corner of the wine world, even if, alas, its total vineyard area is far from extensive. The grapes used to go to the Tain co-op but have been vinified at the domaine since 1996.

I first tasted it chez The Wine Society, who are selling it at £12.95 a bottle, which seems excellent value to me, but it is quite widely available in other European countries, the US and NZ.

Find this wine

Choose your plan
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 297,050 wine reviews & 16,151 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors

Everything in “Member”, plus:

  • Early access to the latest wine reviews, 48 hours in advance
  • Early access to the latest articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 297,050 wine reviews & 16,151 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Access askJancis, our AI wine assistant
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade

Everything in “Professional”, plus:

  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
  • Access to submit wines for review
  • Offer memberships to your employees and manage them from a single place
  • API access available for an additional fee
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Wines of the week

Person in Domaine Sérol's vineyards in the Côte Roannaise (credit Le Bon Cliché)
Wines of the week Thirst-slaking freshness in a red from Central France. From £15.50, $26.95. For a variety so maligned for much of the...
chickens in the HJW vineyard at Hermann J Wiemer, Seneca Lake
Wines of the week The dry white wine that established New York’s Finger Lakes as the Riesling mecca of the US. And it’s only...
Constantino Ramos
Wines of the week A Vinho Verde white made with the exactitude of a former chemist and the soul of a vine whisperer. From...
Ried Kellerberg in autumn
Wines of the week Summer dreams in a limy, zesty white wine from Austria, from €9.90, £18.37, $19.99. Above, the Kellerberg vineyard, one of...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Barale estate and vineyards
Tasting articles A final report on a tricky vintage that now shows remarkably fresh and accessible. Today, reviews of wines from multiple...
Valle de Guadalupe vineyards
Inside information Mexico’s wine industry offers lessons in dealing with climate challenges, says Mexico-based journalist and sommelier Carlos Borboa. Above, vineyards in...
Richard Hemming and Hiromi Ohno outside Sushi Oono
Vinomakase Richard’s new Vinomakase column explores how the experts match wine with Japanese cuisine. For the first edition, a traditional sushi...
Markus and Eben Sadie at Berry Bros April 2026
Free for all Leading new-wave South African wine producer is looking to the future. A version of this article is published by the...
Hops hang from the ceiling at Dylan's at The Kings Arms in St Albans
Bite-sized A 15th-century pub with bang-up-to-date feasting in the Cathedral Quarter of St Albans. The front bar is still reassuringly pubby...
CWL Wines of Brazil over map
Book reviews Three additions to the Classic Wine Library plus a self-published guide to Portuguese wine. Three of the reviews below are...
Sadie Family winery exterior
Tasting articles A revealing vertical that traces the evolution of South Africa’s most sought-after white. The wines were shown by UK importer...
Léoville Barton - line-up of wines for vertical tasting
Tasting articles A quarter-century of wines from a legendary Bordeaux estate. See also this guide to our bordeaux verticals. Although Château Léoville...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.